ShortScale.org

Has anyone ever made any nuts? It could be useful to collect that info on the board.

I am starting to mess around with cutting them. I have a new vise, some files, and a Dremel. I know that some of you have this info on the top of your skull but I am not finding it compiled anywhere. If someone can contribute to this info, I will gladly post it to the Wiki (if I have sufficient access).

Here is what I would like to see for all major year changes, so the 22.5s, 24s, and 25.5s. So far it looks like stock Fender 22.5s are 7.25, and 24s and 25s are 9.5. A width is 1.5 and B width is 1 5/8. Does this look right?

Do they change with RIs or Squier models?

MODEL: Duo-Sonic
YEAR: 1956
LENGTH: 22.5
CURVE: V
TYPE: A
RADIUS: 7.25
NUT WIDTH: 1.5

MODEL: Mustang
YEAR: 1965
LENGTH: 24
CURVE: C
TAPE: B
RADIUS: 9.5
NUT WIDTH: 1 5/8

are they flat-bottomed or curved?

Flat bottomed, flat bottomed, talk about bun cakes my girls got 'em...

These bottoms actually DO make the rocking world go round.

From what I can tell most shorties are radiused top and bottom. Oh I see--that's the difference between slab and veneer. I get it. Okay, so I would have to look at each one to be sure. Are veneers rounded all the way to the nut? Must be. I would also think veneers started at a certain year. I can try to gather that for a list.

I just found on this site confirmation that Duo-sonics went from 1.5 in 56 to 1 5/8 in 61 and back to 1.5 as the Duo II! WTF Leo, you hillbilly?

I am still looking for radius info. It's almost imperceptible to my eye. Does the nut radius hurt the sound any more than deep goddam slots? Yeah, I guess the string would bend out of pitch if the radius were off.

I thought 24" necks were 7.5"

I'd like to give you the information on the nuts, but I usually just eyeball that shit, and use a micrometer to determine exact distance from string to string.

the neck on my hh jag is 24", but i know the radius is bigger than the vintage 7.5's.

dots wrote:the neck on my hh jag is 24", but i know the radius is bigger than the vintage 7.5's.

That's to compensate for the TOM, though.

theshadowofseattle wrote:

dots wrote:the neck on my hh jag is 24", but i know the radius is bigger than the vintage 7.5's.

That's to compensate for the TOM, though.

I think the neck is the same radius as a LP? 10 or summit, like my JS.

This is a timely email. It's plastic, but a useful exercise. I think I am going to dig this. I have a pile of bones, and I started filing one just to see how hard it is, and the file did and awesome job, even without the Dremel. I will mainly use that for cuts, at least in the beginning. Later I may use it to speed the process. At this point my standards are as low as my string heights. I just don't want the strings to LAY ON the neck.

Tonight I am going to make my first one. I may even cut off an old one. I better start with one of the gap toothed hillbilly nuts that is worn down almost to wood. I have the SMac radius gauges, so hopefully I can eyeball that stuff. I just thought I'd see what people here know before I tried it.

aug? you eyeball your nuts?
either way you swing the bat thats no good.
gotta get you a nut ruler.

Somebody's got to eyeball Aug's nuts. (Insert NAME here).

I KNOW this looks like store-bought teeth. Before you give me all sorts of shit, let me say that I learned a lot from it, and one of the things I learned is that I either need to get some thin nut files, or start using thre Dremel. But I glued it on anyway, and here's why: it only took me a half hour to make, and I needed a baseline to work from. This one is too curved at the top, but the slots make it less so. I was in a bit of a hurry to wrap up that night, or I would have filed the top down to the 7.25. The slots are only supposed to be HALF a string width. They are also supposed to be smooth enough that the strings don't stick and snap. I could give three shits about high action at the moment.

You may also notice that I already chipped the fucking paint on this neck, but it is a vintage anyway and looks it on the back. So I don't have to be gingerly with the body. This is for the kit I bought from Dillon. I am not going to be wet sanding that for a while yet since I have to get some of the non-keepers out the door first. I learned on this nut though becauce I didn't want to practice on one I would have to sell. Now that I have done one, it is SUCH a non-issue.

difference in profiles



wizzard 2

Oval is actually termed "C" and Flat Oval is actually called "D"

Telecaster = "C"
Telecaster Deluxe = "U"

has anybody ever played a guitar with the hard d profile? i cant imagine that it would be comfortable...

I've played a classical guitar with a very wide fretboard, and a very thin and flat profile. That thing was not comfortable at all. I guess it's like a super hard D.

I want to try out a V neck, they look pretty rad.

DGNR8 wrote:I have a new vise.

Is that the normal American way of spelling that? In England it's Vice. Do you pronounce it like vise too?

Malik wrote:I've played a classical guitar with a very wide fretboard, and a very thin and flat profile. That thing was not comfortable at all. I guess it's like a super hard D.

I want to try out a V neck, they look pretty rad.

go shop and ask test fender Eric clapton signature guitar
they are V shape

bob wrote:

DGNR8 wrote:I have a new vise.

Is that the normal American way of spelling that? In England it's Vice. Do you pronounce it like vise too?

they're two different things. we spell the tool used for holding things in place "vise". while we spell the bad habbit "vice".

bubbles_horwitz wrote:

bob wrote:

DGNR8 wrote:I have a new vise.

Is that the normal American way of spelling that? In England it's Vice. Do you pronounce it like vise too?

they're two different things. we spell the tool used for holding things in place "vise". while we spell the bad habbit "vice".

Vicegrips. Vice City. I've never seen "vise" before. Pronounced like ice with a v.

vise grips.