ShortScale.org

Just got a jagmaster of Clist to mess with and already ordered a set of GFS spoli humbuckers (like tele deluxe pups in appearance) We will see how they work out....

Question, how do you lock down the bridge? I don't know how at all. It has 3 springs, do I just get 2 more, and then tighten the front screws down tight as well?

Pull the trem up so the plate is flush with the body and wedge a slab of wood between the block in the back (that the springs hook into) and the body.
http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/blocktremolo.htm

Very nice, by the way.

thanks for the help....

I am curious how it will sounds/look with the GFS split humbuckers installed. I am debating giving it a little "relicing" Not normally a fan of this, but I have to take Mike's side that I like beat up sunbursts, but not abig fan of new clean lookng sunbursts.... Kind of weird, I know.

tremolo is now blocked.... That was easy.

I'd recommend keeping the springs on and tightening up the claw, even with the block in place- I found taking the springs off my Strat trem kinda killed some of the vibrations and vibe. Sounded much more "alive" rockin' the short curlies plus block.

Yeah keep the springs in.

Doog wrote:I'd recommend keeping the springs on and tightening up the claw, even with the block in place- I found taking the springs off my Strat trem kinda killed some of the vibrations and vibe. Sounded much more "alive" rockin' the short curlies plus block.

Springs are still attached and stuff, I have just not had a strat tremolo since my first guitar and wasn't sure how to block it. It came with 9's on it and I put some flatwound 12's on it and the bridge came up 1/4 off the back of the body at the rear of the bridge from the added tension.... Not good

I just tighten that fucker up, no wood.

Doog wrote:I'd recommend keeping the springs on and tightening up the claw, even with the block in place- I found taking the springs off my Strat trem kinda killed some of the vibrations and vibe. Sounded much more "alive" rockin' the short curlies plus block.

The article I linked to mentions that the earthing is often done via the spring claw plate (it is on my Strat), so if you removed all the springs you would also potentially lose the earthing of the bridge/strings. Whether that matters much or not I don't know.

i had one.. had being the key word.

On my strats I usually put 5 springs in, holds pretty solid.

I got the 25.5 Jagmaster and was looking at those GFS pickups but i usually hate ceramic magnet designed pickups. But let us know what you think about them.

will do. If the p90 and the hot nashville "retrotrons" I got in my other project are anything to judge by they will be cool. They are suppossed to me fairly midrangy though, which is fine by me as the Marshall JVM (with my current speakers) is fairly bright

jcyphe wrote:I got the 25.5 Jagmaster and was looking at those GFS pickups but i usually hate ceramic magnet designed pickups. But let us know what you think about them.

I did too but the GFS Brooklyns I have in my Ovation sound awesome enough, I don't judge ceramic pickups on paper anymore.

I love my Jagmaster. Rock on!

ace looking guitfiddle mickie! you are the c-list master!

You owe it to yourself to try the set-up procedure & specs for the Strat bridge listed on Fender's site. To sum it up, you loosen the middle screws and the trem pivots on the outside 2x screws more like the modern version. If done properly, tuning stability is EXCELLENT even when shaking the whole guitar around by the trem arm. I think proper set-up is just as important to a Strat bridge as to a Jag bridge - and maybe less often talked about.

I had the same problem with my Jagmaster II. I just put another two springs on the block and it held 13's.