I now haz SHortscaleZ!

The original shortscale guitars; Mustangs, Duo-Sonics, Musicmasters, Jaguars, Broncos, Jag-stang, Jagmaster, Super-Sonic, Cyclone, and Toronados.

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letsgocoyote
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I now haz SHortscaleZ!

Post by letsgocoyote »

i got this now!
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i have joined schortscalehood. i put 11s on it because i thought i should since its short, but i put 10s on it now and it plays much ebtter actually

anyways, i like it.
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roofiez
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Post by roofiez »

like it :P
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Will
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Post by Will »

Twins!
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Once you go lipstick, you never go back. If you ever need repair info, don't hesitate to ask - I think I've fixed every part of mine at least 3 times.
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Aeon
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Post by Aeon »

Isn't that the guitar Beck plays?
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Will
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Post by Will »

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Dexter Romweber
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Cat Power
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Beck
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Ninja Mike 808
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Post by Ninja Mike 808 »

Dope.
If you think of god as a pair of pants, a spiritualist thinks he needs pants, in fact he wants pants but none of the conventional types of pants seem to fit just right, so he makes his own pants and is happy that his knees are no longer cold.-fibus
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bamonte
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Post by bamonte »

I like the headstock and the way the strings are arranged on it lol
Looking for recommendations on some new music?
www.gnaracidlovemusic.com
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Will
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Post by Will »

bamonte wrote:I like the headstock and the way the strings are arranged on it lol
You don't even know the half of it - trying to get the slots just so is a pain in the ass. The slightest bit shallow, and the strings jump out taking every other string with them. Too deep and there's no break angle and you get crazy buzzing.

LGC - whatever you do, don't replace the stock nut!
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stewart
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Post by stewart »

DuoSonicBoy wrote:
bamonte wrote:I like the headstock and the way the strings are arranged on it lol
You don't even know the half of it - trying to get the slots just so is a pain in the ass. The slightest bit shallow, and the strings jump out taking every other string with them. Too deep and there's no break angle and you get crazy buzzing.

LGC - whatever you do, don't replace the stock nut!
i bought one a few months ago but haven't changed the strings yet because it looks like such a pain. they look like they'll just pop out of the bridge if you don't keep the tension really tight.
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Sloan
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Post by Sloan »

lopl
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citizens_X
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Post by citizens_X »

Sweet looking guitar, i'll probably pickup up one of the Danelectro RI's
letsgocoyote
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Post by letsgocoyote »

DuoSonicBoy wrote:
bamonte wrote:I like the headstock and the way the strings are arranged on it lol
You don't even know the half of it - trying to get the slots just so is a pain in the ass. The slightest bit shallow, and the strings jump out taking every other string with them. Too deep and there's no break angle and you get crazy buzzing.

LGC - whatever you do, don't replace the stock nut!
deal!


yeah, i really want to get it plaing beautfully over time. ihad a 90's ri Dano U1 a couple years ago that played wonderful, so I know it can be done.
right now with 10's it is playing pretty well, but the action is a bit higher. i think the problem comes in that the neck has too much relief, because it only has a solid steel rod, not an adjustable truss. which is why i put 10s on. also the frets seem kind of 'dry'... oxidized maybe. they were pretty gruby when i got it so i cleaned them a bit with steel wool... they are also a bit flat, but seem to have some meat left, so if I could get them recrowned that would also help alot, i think.

if you say i shouldnt replace the nut, i wont, but I was considering cutting a new aluminum one of my own for fun because the way the stock nut is, the nut slots are totally SQUARE, kind of deep, and noticibally wider than the strings. so its kind of weird.
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Will
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Post by Will »

Setting the action is a balancing act between neck and bridge angle. There should be a micro-tilt adjustment for neck angle. If you need more height, dimes and pennies work well. You also need enough break angle over the bridge, otherwise you'll get buzzing. The problem is that the masonite back tends to warp over time, so you need a lot of compensation.

If you have to get a new nut, best thing is one of the Dano reissue parts from www.danguitars.com . You have to modify it to work, though:
1. the stock string slots are too shallow; one light stroke with a thin coping saw blade should do the trick, along with a little cleanup with some emery paper. The treble strings should have their entire diameter in the slot, while the bass strings can be about 1/3 exposed.
2. The entire nut is too high. This is the time consuming part, as you're cutting material off the bottom little by little until it's just right. No shortcuts here, just trial and error. You can check the height by depressing each string between the second and third fret. Then look for space between the string and first fret - you want just enough to let light through.
3. Now the screw hole probably won't be lined up anymore. Best thing here is just to file it a little oblong in the direction you need. As long as it doesn't move side-to-side when screwed in, you're golden.

These are wonderful guitars once you get them working, it just takes a little work to get there.
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westtexasred
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Post by westtexasred »

There is a 1448 0n ebay for $299 BIN if anyone is interested(it's not mine).

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Post by iCEByTes »

Cover The Wonders - that thing you do! on that guitar

can !?
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Precise dwarf bravery
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Fran
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Post by Fran »

Cool. I nearly bought Proggys Dano at the weekend. There is something special about lipsticks i agree.
letsgocoyote
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Post by letsgocoyote »

they are such syrupy mellow pickups. i measured the output on mine....




3.49k !!!
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light years
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Post by light years »

nice guitar! i want this one
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Fran
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Post by Fran »

I love the sandwiched body, it reminds me of Lindert guitars. But the scratchplate shape is gay.