How to Change Strings on Jag w/ Vintage Style Tuning Machine
Moderated By: mods
- Armchair Bronco
- .
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2008 5:26 am
- Location: Seattle, WA
How to Change Strings on Jag w/ Vintage Style Tuning Machine
Hey guys, I'm getting ready to change the strings on my new Fender Classic Player Jaguar Special HH, but this is my first guitar with "Vintage Style" tuning machines that mount from the top of the post (as opposed to a side-mounted post).
What are some tips & tricks for doing this? I did a YouTube search, but all the videos I found were for Gibson or Stat-style tuners with side mounting holes (parallel to the headstock) that require bending the string back on itself.
It looks like top mounted strings go straight in and wind from the top down. How much slack sould I leave to get 3 or 3.5 good winds?
What are some tips & tricks for doing this? I did a YouTube search, but all the videos I found were for Gibson or Stat-style tuners with side mounting holes (parallel to the headstock) that require bending the string back on itself.
It looks like top mounted strings go straight in and wind from the top down. How much slack sould I leave to get 3 or 3.5 good winds?
"In Power Trios I Trust"
There's a good picture for this, but I can't find it. I think basically you should put the string through the bridge as normal, pull it tight over the bridge and nut and cut it to about an inch longer than the post, then put the end into the middle of the tuner, bend it over one side and start winding.
- Armchair Bronco
- .
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2008 5:26 am
- Location: Seattle, WA
- BobArsecake
- a mannequin made by madmen
- Posts: 10957
- Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2006 11:40 am
- Location: Leeds (LeedsLeeds)
- Armchair Bronco
- .
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2008 5:26 am
- Location: Seattle, WA
Well, I've got my first Jaguar string change under my belt. What a freakin' pain!
First of all, to get 3 good winds around the post, I'll need to double the suggested slack next time around (at least for the wound strings). On the low E, I didn't even get 2 winds on the post -- which will suck for Drop D tunings.
However, other than not leaving enough slack, everything went fine until I hit the high E. The damn string kept slipping out of the post. I finally got my 9-year-old son to loan me both of his thumbs, and between the two of us, we managed to tighten things up...after about 15 minutes of patient work!
I'm not ready to throw in the towel yet and am hoping that the next time I change strings, it'll only take 8 minutes for the high E...
First of all, to get 3 good winds around the post, I'll need to double the suggested slack next time around (at least for the wound strings). On the low E, I didn't even get 2 winds on the post -- which will suck for Drop D tunings.
However, other than not leaving enough slack, everything went fine until I hit the high E. The damn string kept slipping out of the post. I finally got my 9-year-old son to loan me both of his thumbs, and between the two of us, we managed to tighten things up...after about 15 minutes of patient work!
I'm not ready to throw in the towel yet and am hoping that the next time I change strings, it'll only take 8 minutes for the high E...
"In Power Trios I Trust"
-
- .
- Posts: 6206
- Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 3:31 am
- Location: Jefferson, GA
- Mike
- I like EL34s
- Posts: 39170
- Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:30 am
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Contact:
+1More Cowbell wrote:I love it when its time to change strings, its kinda like giving a hot rod a tune up.
Plus Klusons are incredibly easy to string, they're the best tuning machines by a long shot. I just allow 4-6 inches excess past the post. Never had a problem.
Sounds like you're using 9s if your high E is that springy, just use some needle nosed pliers to bend your right angle if you need to. I can restring a Kluson guitar in 3 minutes.
i played my new willshire plugged in like all day yesterday non stop (it was the first time i plugged it in since i bought it)....i know thats sad.
anywhoo...im pretty sure they loaded it up with 10's but to me they feel like 8's. like i fucking bend the note just pressing my finger down on the fucking string holding it still. its fucked up. all my chords sound like shit. like all dissonent and stuff. just from playing normally.
those packs of 13's cant get here soon enough.
anywhoo...im pretty sure they loaded it up with 10's but to me they feel like 8's. like i fucking bend the note just pressing my finger down on the fucking string holding it still. its fucked up. all my chords sound like shit. like all dissonent and stuff. just from playing normally.
those packs of 13's cant get here soon enough.
dots wrote:incesticide
- Armchair Bronco
- .
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2008 5:26 am
- Location: Seattle, WA
First of all, thanks for all the feedback and "tips & tricks".
As with any new process, I figured things wouldn't go totally smoothly out the block -- and they didn't. The trouble with the high E is that one of the initial windings crossed over the top of a previous wind, so I had to loosen up the string to fix it. When I pushed up on the bottom of the string, it accidentally popped off the post. By then, it was already tightly wound in a coil making it REALLY hard to re-start the process.
I do have a string winder, but I didn't use it. Next time around, I'll dust it off.
The factory strings all had a minimum of 3 winds, so I figured I ought to use that as a benchmark, but so far even the low E with 1.5-2.0 winds seems to be staying in tune just fine. Bottom line: the Gibson Brite Wire #11's that I put on my Jag sound great.
As with any new process, I figured things wouldn't go totally smoothly out the block -- and they didn't. The trouble with the high E is that one of the initial windings crossed over the top of a previous wind, so I had to loosen up the string to fix it. When I pushed up on the bottom of the string, it accidentally popped off the post. By then, it was already tightly wound in a coil making it REALLY hard to re-start the process.
I do have a string winder, but I didn't use it. Next time around, I'll dust it off.
The factory strings all had a minimum of 3 winds, so I figured I ought to use that as a benchmark, but so far even the low E with 1.5-2.0 winds seems to be staying in tune just fine. Bottom line: the Gibson Brite Wire #11's that I put on my Jag sound great.
"In Power Trios I Trust"
- Armchair Bronco
- .
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2008 5:26 am
- Location: Seattle, WA
Gibson Brite Wires don't have a set with a wound G string, but there are two other Gibson electric string lines that do:MatthewK wrote:Do they have a wound G?
Gibson L-5 Jazz Strings
http://www.gibson.com/en-us/Divisions/G ... eries/L-5/
Gibson Powerlines
http://www.gibson.com/en-us/Divisions/G ... owerlines/
The Powerlines look very interesting as they're made specifically for dropped tunings: D, C, and "Standard Low Tuning". Never tried 'em, but now I'm curious. The smallest gauge is 12-52.
"Slow wound, nickel plated steel outer wire with Swedish hex steel core wire, chromed ball ends and gauges specifically designed to accommodate lowered tunings without adverse affects on the guitar's set up. Each gauge is balanced to provide great feel while producing thunderous low end. "
"In Power Trios I Trust"
You'll probably get another turn around the post once you properly stretch the new strings in, if you haven't already.Armchair Bronco wrote:First of all, to get 3 good winds around the post, I'll need to double the suggested slack next time around (at least for the wound strings). On the low E, I didn't even get 2 winds on the post -- which will suck for Drop D tunings.
- stewart
- Cunning Linguist
- Posts: 17644
- Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:33 pm
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Contact:
this is from the fender website, i've always used it as a guide and never had any problems-
Vintage keys. For these, you'll want to pre-cut the strings to achieve the proper length and desired amount of winds. Pull the sixth string (tautly, remember) to the fourth key and cut it. Pull the fifth string to the third key and cut it. Pull the fourth string between the second and first keys and cut it. Pull the third string nearly to the top of the headcap and cut it. Pull the second string about a 1/2" (13 mm) past the headcap and cut it. Finally, pull the first string 1 1/2" (38 mm) past the top of the headcap and cut it. Insert into the center hole in the tuning key, bend and crimp to a 90-degree angle, and wind neatly in a downward pattern, being carefull to prevent overlapping of the strings.
Vintage keys. For these, you'll want to pre-cut the strings to achieve the proper length and desired amount of winds. Pull the sixth string (tautly, remember) to the fourth key and cut it. Pull the fifth string to the third key and cut it. Pull the fourth string between the second and first keys and cut it. Pull the third string nearly to the top of the headcap and cut it. Pull the second string about a 1/2" (13 mm) past the headcap and cut it. Finally, pull the first string 1 1/2" (38 mm) past the top of the headcap and cut it. Insert into the center hole in the tuning key, bend and crimp to a 90-degree angle, and wind neatly in a downward pattern, being carefull to prevent overlapping of the strings.
It's possible to string up on slotted pegs without pre-cutting the string or feeding it through the center hole, as you would a modern 'keyhole' style peg.
Once you've threaded the string onto the guitar, kink it as shown in diagram, pull it taught and then wind on as normal. The first wind should go over the top as a 'safety wind' to stop it from popping out.
![Image](http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i282/rrrob9/slotted_peg.jpg)
I find this method to be reliable and had no tuning problems or slippage. Great if you get caught short at a rehearsal or gig without any wire cutters handy.
I learnt it from this book, which suggests about a million other ways too. I was suprised at how many methods there are. Well worth a read.
Once you've threaded the string onto the guitar, kink it as shown in diagram, pull it taught and then wind on as normal. The first wind should go over the top as a 'safety wind' to stop it from popping out.
![Image](http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i282/rrrob9/slotted_peg.jpg)
I find this method to be reliable and had no tuning problems or slippage. Great if you get caught short at a rehearsal or gig without any wire cutters handy.
I learnt it from this book, which suggests about a million other ways too. I was suprised at how many methods there are. Well worth a read.