ShortScale.org

All you solderers feel free to drop in your secrets.

As far as I work this is my technique:

1. Clean the iron when cold before use
2. Have a sponge ready which is damp for cleaning the iron every few minutes of soldering
3. Plug in the iron and wait for it to heat up completely (~3-5 minutes)
4. If using stripboard or perfboard insert the component and flatten one leg to the board and clamp it with some helping hands.
5. Arrange the other leg to a slight angle so it is almost perpendicular to the board but making contact with the copper at the edge of it's hole
6. Apply the soldering iron to the leg just above this point, with pressure in the direction of the edge of the hole we're leaning against
7. Feed some solder into the join of leg and copper, it should melt quickly and form a joint, remove solder and iron.
8. Snip excess leg and move to the next one, you can use the helping hands to just clamp the board this time.


I can make a video demo if you think it will help?

Instead of a sponge, I've been seeing these copper thread filled fish bowl looking things for removing solder from the iron.
Always keep copper thread to help remove solder.
After you've completed the build and snipped everything, touch the solder joint with the tip to remelt the solder, to take care of any possible cold solders.
Use tweezers/ pliers to hold things that you don't want to get burned by your fingers.
Use a large gauge of solder to help prevent the length of time you hold the iron to a component.
You don't need to use a powerful iron, but you don't want to weak of an iron.
When frustrated, put it down and walk away.
Get a fan to keep the smoke from your face, and get a nice clear lamp so you don't strain your eyes.
Try not be hunched over for too long.
Wash hands often, and get an apron that covers your chest and lap.
Get used to hot flux shooting off and landing on your hand.
Rock glass, and when snipped a lead have a finger on top of it to prevent it from launching into your face.

I've proly got more, but this'll do.

Use heat sinks or little alligator clips on sensitive parts to keep them from getting burned - especially transistors.
Use sockets for ICs and other chips - too risky to solder those directly by hand.

Print off a layout in advance. As you build, highlight each connection as you solder it. It simplifies debugging when you can look at your layout and see right away if you missed anything.

DuoSonicBoy wrote:Use heat sinks or little alligator clips on sensitive parts to keep them from getting burned - especially transistors.

Just use SIL sockets for transistors. Unless I'm doing a one transistor simple build like the Saltbooster I always socket them. As much as it protects them from heat damage it also means you can't fuck up by placing them backwards.

I use this stuff:
http://www.banzaieffects.de/SIL-32-pins-pr-17638.html

And snip it into threes.


It works beautifully.

Any safety tips? I always get all and when I find out Fredo dropped the soldering iron on his leg again.

Well, I guess if u follow these tips properly, you won't need to be extra careful.

roachello wrote:Any safety tips? I always get all and when I find out Fredo dropped the soldering iron on his leg again.

Well, I guess if u follow these tips properly, you won't need to be extra careful.

haha He needs a soldering iron stand it seems!

* Don't solder in your bed.



this is actually where I do all my soldering...it doesn't always go well.

Use Rosin Core Solder, never use Acid Core on circuit boards.

it's a good idea to clean the tip right before you solder a joint and not after. otherwise you risk burning out the tip.

Mike wrote:

DuoSonicBoy wrote:Use heat sinks or little alligator clips on sensitive parts to keep them from getting burned - especially transistors.

Just use SIL sockets for transistors. Unless I'm doing a one transistor simple build like the Saltbooster I always socket them. As much as it protects them from heat damage it also means you can't fuck up by placing them backwards.

I use this stuff:
http://www.banzaieffects.de/SIL-32-pins-pr-17638.html

And snip it into threes.


It works beautifully.

Excellent advice.

Also, everyone grabs the iron by the hot part at least once, and after that, usually never again. It's like you're taking it lightly and then you get burned and you take it a whole lot more seriously.

Apply solder to both surfaces before soldering them together, it's brahsome.

These are some great tips for making sexbots.

It doesn't matter how often I do it, I'm still terrible at this...

Hurb wrote:* Don't solder in your bed.



this is actually where I do all my soldering...it doesn't always go well.

In bed?

*visions of Hurb in stripey "Aquafresh advert" pyjamas, bleary eyed, surrounded by teddies, installing pickups*

Cheerios in the pickup cavity? I should coco.

Hahahaha. I'm kind of settled to the fact that I'm not very good at sodering. Can't even spell it.

Then again, I don't need to be. My idea of a radical guitar mod is new strings...

I work on top of my mini fridge in the dorms - I clamp parts in the door.

Just out of interest, why do some Americans pronounce the word "solder" as a sound very similar to "cider"? I don't suppose they all do, but I've heard Seymour Duncan and the people off American Chopper say it a lot like that.

Aye, soddering. It's the new 'erbal, although slightly less IRIE sounding.

Slightly off topic maybe, but a question for all you macho pedal builder types: have sorted out my solder issues (with some carcinogenic but melty solder) and am making a Super Hard On first from this schem:



... using the perfoard layout on the bottom right. My problem is, with my big doofus fingers and fisher price soldering skills, I keep fouling the sections where there are two components close to each other (for instance R1 and R3). My question is, is there anything to stop me putting a blank trace in between each row, thus making this a 10x12 board rather than a 10x6. Does that make sense? ANd can I do it? Please?