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Trem/Bridge Springs Strat

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 8:00 pm
by JamesSmann
Hey All,

I bought a trem arm for my strat and i want to set up the springs properlike. right now all five are in. which should i remove to give me good trem action? should they be configured a certain way?

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 8:11 pm
by Mages
What size strings are you using? for 11s I use 4 springs and loosen the claw up on the back. I find that this gives the right amount of tension to balance the trem the standard 1/4 inch from the body while keeping it stiff enough to allow for delicate trem action. 10s or 9s should use 3 springs.

that should be a good starting point. I think you should be able to adjust it to how it feels good for you from there.

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 8:18 pm
by JamesSmann
mage wrote:What size strings are you using? for 11s I use 4 springs and loosen the claw up on the back. I find that this gives the right amount of tension to balance the trem the standard 1/4 inch from the body while keeping it stiff enough to allow for delicate trem action. 10s or 9s should use 3 springs.

that should be a good starting point. I think you should be able to adjust it to how it feels good for you from there.
nice. i use 10s. so 3 springs it is. excellent. thanks dude.

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 8:23 pm
by benecol
I had 11's on mine, and was using three springs set up like an arrow (lugs 2, 3 and 4 on the claw going to holes 1, 3 and 5 on the block, if that makes sense). I propped the trem up about quarter of an inch at the back, tuned to pitch, then loosened the claw gradually until the block dropped out. Then I adjusted the claw until I had exactly two semitones of upbend on the trem before it hit the body. Hope this helps - shout if it doesn't make sense.

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 8:51 pm
by JamesSmann
benecol wrote:I had 11's on mine, and was using three springs set up like an arrow (lugs 2, 3 and 4 on the claw going to holes 1, 3 and 5 on the block, if that makes sense). I propped the trem up about quarter of an inch at the back, tuned to pitch, then loosened the claw gradually until the block dropped out. Then I adjusted the claw until I had exactly two semitones of upbend on the trem before it hit the body. Hope this helps - shout if it doesn't make sense.
that makes total sense. the trem arm hasn't arrived yet, so I'm just kind of getting familiar with the process first. i'll definitely give this method a try though.

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 9:01 pm
by Fran
If you are going to set it 'floating' dont forget to graphite the nut slots and even under the string trees, if the strings travel snags anywhere it will forever be going out of tune.
Check your springs are all the same length and with 10's most people set them in an arrow formation, you get a little extra tension.

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 9:03 pm
by JamesSmann
Fran wrote:If you are going to set it 'floating' dont forget to graphite the nut slots and even under the string trees, if the strings travel snags anywhere it will forever be going out of tune.
Check your springs are all the same length and with 10's most people set them in an arrow formation, you get a little extra tension.
dead brilliant as always fran! thanks! the arrow config seems to be the way to go. can't wait. not that i plan on doing crazy dive bomb solos. since i've gotten my gretsch with the bigsby, i just find myself adding textural sustained stings with some trem'd bar action for interestingness.

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 9:14 pm
by Fran
St. Jimmy wrote:i plan on doing crazy dive bomb solos with loads of pinch harmonics and dimebag squealz.
YAY!!


**happy**

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 10:58 pm
by punch
Keep in mind this stuff is subjective, what feels good for me (stiff as all get out) may not feel good for you. Is it a six screw vintage type bridge or the two point fulcrum?

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:43 pm
by JamesSmann
Fran wrote:
St. Jimmy wrote:i plan on doing crazy dive bomb solos with loads of pinch harmonics and dimebag squealz.
YAY!!


**happy**

LOLZIMUZ MAXIMUS FOR FRANZIMUS.


and punch:

six screw vintage type.

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 12:07 am
by euan
Make sure all six screws are the same height as well otherwise you can get tuning issues as well as a funny action.

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 8:54 am
by Bacchus
I'd take out all the middle screws and leave the outside two if I were you. Less stuff for the bridge to get caught on that way.

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 8:55 am
by theshadowofseattle
Man up and use the trem with all 5 springs.

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 9:10 am
by Mike
It won't be set up properly. 5 springs will apply too much tension and the trem will be hardtailed as opposed to floating.

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 9:11 am
by Bacchus
Aye. Five springs is a crap idea.

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 9:16 am
by euan
BacchusPaul wrote:I'd take out all the middle screws and leave the outside two if I were you. Less stuff for the bridge to get caught on that way.
I don't know if this will work. If that was a good idea cunts would be all over it trying to emulate the two post modern designs.

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 9:19 am
by Mike
It does work, I've seen it done.

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 9:20 am
by Bacchus
It works well for me. That's how I've mine set up and it will not go out of tune. Having said that, I'm not saying that it won't work with all the screws there.

I've heard of a couple of people say they do this. It's fairly common.

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 9:28 am
by euan
If I was a Strat trem users I would try it.

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 9:46 am
by Bacchus
Makes sense like. Two pivot points are going to be better than six.