I've been thinking about picking up a cheapy generic TOM to put in my Jazzmaster- the Warmoth "Modified" Mustang bridge I've got in there now is cool, but it'd be nicer to have something a lil' more solid. Plus, with the taller Strat pickup in there currently, I could do with shimming the neck anyways to raise the action; something I'd need to do with the TOM.
The radius mismatch- is it that much of a deal? I remember having the Mustang bridge in there with it's 7.25" radius with the JM's 9.5" made for iffy action on the E strings. Could I just file the slots on the relevant saddles to make the TOM's 10-12" radius match the JM?
I'm thinking about just getting a ABR-style (with the thin posts), and using piping or similar to make it a tight fit into the Jazzy's bridge cups. It'd probably cost me 15-20 quid max, so it's hardly a massive outgoing, but stilll.. am I wasting my time?
Jazz TOM bridge?
Moderated By: mods
The large post "import" tune-o-matics (epiphone style) will drop straight into the Jazzy bridge cups with no room to move, so they're the best choice for a sturdy bridge in my opinion. I had the bridge from my G400 on my CIJ Jaguar for years, and made no mods other than just taking the Mustang bridge out and dropping the Epiphone bridge's posts into the Jaguar's bridge cups. It played very nicely and I could do big bends and heavier string attack. I've heard different stories with Jazzmasters and it was a no-go on my Jag-Stang (action way too high), but if you're shimming the neck, I think that'd be a great choice.
This pic is one from the GFS site, the Epiphone ones are ABR-1 style (with the retainer wire) , I suspect either would work as long as it has the large posts:
A big drawback with this is it's completely non-adjustable... the action it has when you drop it in is the action you get. It was thankfully ok on my Jaguar, though the radius mis-match gives the perceived notion of higher action. I never shimmed the neck or anything and just lived with the radius malarky, I didn't find it that big of a deal.
Also bridge is closer to Gibson spacing than F spacing, which will misallign your polepieces. This may slightly reduce that spanky brightness you're accustomed to... and I may as well point out that the TOM will do that anyway, as well as alter the feel of the guitar entirely.
For what it's worth, I dug it for awhile but eventually moved back to Mustang bridge and was amazed at all the Jaguar/Fender character I got back that simply wasn't there when the TOM was on it. I guess the biggest "pro" is that it's completely reversible and requires no other mods to the guitar (apart from possibly needing a shim, which you might do regardless).
This pic is one from the GFS site, the Epiphone ones are ABR-1 style (with the retainer wire) , I suspect either would work as long as it has the large posts:
A big drawback with this is it's completely non-adjustable... the action it has when you drop it in is the action you get. It was thankfully ok on my Jaguar, though the radius mis-match gives the perceived notion of higher action. I never shimmed the neck or anything and just lived with the radius malarky, I didn't find it that big of a deal.
Also bridge is closer to Gibson spacing than F spacing, which will misallign your polepieces. This may slightly reduce that spanky brightness you're accustomed to... and I may as well point out that the TOM will do that anyway, as well as alter the feel of the guitar entirely.
For what it's worth, I dug it for awhile but eventually moved back to Mustang bridge and was amazed at all the Jaguar/Fender character I got back that simply wasn't there when the TOM was on it. I guess the biggest "pro" is that it's completely reversible and requires no other mods to the guitar (apart from possibly needing a shim, which you might do regardless).
Aug wrote:which one of you bastards sent me an ebay question asking if you can get teh kurdtz with that 64 mustang?
robertOG wrote:fran & paul are some of the original gangstas of the JS days when you'd have to say "phuck"
Also ensure you get either Metric or Imperial bridges depending on whether Japan/USA. I got the imperial by accident for my Jagg HH Jp and didn't fit. The Metric did however just fine.
Yes you can file the slots for the radius but you need to go with care that you don't over-file get it set up so the two middle strings are the right action (i.e truss and bidge etc have all be attended to) then pop the strings out and file in small increments making sure to test for fret buzz up the entitre neck.
Yes you can file the slots for the radius but you need to go with care that you don't over-file get it set up so the two middle strings are the right action (i.e truss and bidge etc have all be attended to) then pop the strings out and file in small increments making sure to test for fret buzz up the entitre neck.
iCEByTes wrote:5 Most Jizz face maker Solo�s , classic Rock music i ever listened.
iCEByTes wrote:Blunt a joint , Take the Touch , Listen this.
I'm fairly certain it does; since it's a screwdriver action adjustment. With one of those, I wouldn't be able to adjust the action- it'd need to be one with a thumbscrew that sets the action height of the bridge just by means of... getting in the way, hahaha.Mike wrote:Tape?
I didn't realise my bridge had threaded cups, maybe I can't fudge around with other bridges after all.
I'm thinking this is just a daft idea more and more... I guess I could source one of those bridges and just install new cups, provided they're in the same place on the body.
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Fran
- The Curmudgeon
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- Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 5:53 am
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The TOMs post centres are 75.5mm which is the same as my Jaguar bridge, but the cups are a different size with both the standard and the nashville type. So to fit one properly you would have to dowel the holes and re-drill (making sure the grounding wire gets connected to the cup).
Not sure on the MIM adjustomatic.
I think Pauls method is by far the easiest and non permanent, but the TOM will sit high and you will have to shim the neck. You could file the saddles to suit the radius. Although, on the Jagstang i built the nashville TOM suits the Bronco neck just fine. In fact, the action is super low. I have never used the thumb wheels, and i doubt you would, all they will do is mean more shims in the neck which you dont really want. On the other hand i tried a TOM on my custard 'stang and it just was'nt happening, best part is that has a flatter radius warmoth neck
I can totally understand why you want to try this. My JS is just amazing and imo its the solid TOM that has made a huge percentage of the difference compared to my stock model.
These pics might help you Doog...
Not sure on the MIM adjustomatic.
I think Pauls method is by far the easiest and non permanent, but the TOM will sit high and you will have to shim the neck. You could file the saddles to suit the radius. Although, on the Jagstang i built the nashville TOM suits the Bronco neck just fine. In fact, the action is super low. I have never used the thumb wheels, and i doubt you would, all they will do is mean more shims in the neck which you dont really want. On the other hand i tried a TOM on my custard 'stang and it just was'nt happening, best part is that has a flatter radius warmoth neck
I can totally understand why you want to try this. My JS is just amazing and imo its the solid TOM that has made a huge percentage of the difference compared to my stock model.
These pics might help you Doog...
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Fran
- The Curmudgeon
- Posts: 22219
- Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 5:53 am
- Location: Nottingham, Englandshire.
Come to think of it i have a spare Nashville TOM, but its gold. You can have it if you want to give it ago on the cheap? You will need to buy the cups though.
They are £2.20 here.
They are £2.20 here.
Thanks for the tips, Franster- much obliged. I'm dubious about doing anything too "destructive" to the guitar like putting in new cups just in case it's not quite what I'm after, feel-wise.
I think I'm gonna file down the bottom of the height screws on outer saddles on the Warmoth bridge, to reduce "hand-poky-stickyoutness". Then try shimming the neck again and see how I get on. I've found one of the buzzes coming from the bridge was just the thick E buzzing against a intonation screw. A quick tweak later and it's all gooood.
Cheers m'dears!
I think I'm gonna file down the bottom of the height screws on outer saddles on the Warmoth bridge, to reduce "hand-poky-stickyoutness". Then try shimming the neck again and see how I get on. I've found one of the buzzes coming from the bridge was just the thick E buzzing against a intonation screw. A quick tweak later and it's all gooood.
Cheers m'dears!
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Fran
- The Curmudgeon
- Posts: 22219
- Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 5:53 am
- Location: Nottingham, Englandshire.
No worries. If you want that TOM just give us a shout.
I shortened the intonation screws on most of the Jags i've owned because of that problem. One squeeze with the cutter part of some pliers and the excess is gone! As for the height screws, i'd raise the saddles so that the grub screws are not poking out then compensate the height by dropping the whole bridge via the bridge post screws. That is on stock bridges of course, im sure you will be able to do the same.
Glad to help. Its like old times when we all had something constructive to talk about
I shortened the intonation screws on most of the Jags i've owned because of that problem. One squeeze with the cutter part of some pliers and the excess is gone! As for the height screws, i'd raise the saddles so that the grub screws are not poking out then compensate the height by dropping the whole bridge via the bridge post screws. That is on stock bridges of course, im sure you will be able to do the same.
Glad to help. Its like old times when we all had something constructive to talk about
If you want, I could ask why my Squier 10 amp doesn't sound like Smells Like Teen Spirit?
The Warmoth bridge only has height screws on the outer pairs - you set the action on the D & G with the overal height screws, then tweak the other 4. I dunno why they don't just do all 6, but there y'go. It's a big improvement on the stock or Stang bridge at any rate.
Yeah, I'm gonna cut that screw down just as a matter of course- the saddle is gonna be way back on the thick E all the time anyways.
LOL @ Franny Scott!
The Warmoth bridge only has height screws on the outer pairs - you set the action on the D & G with the overal height screws, then tweak the other 4. I dunno why they don't just do all 6, but there y'go. It's a big improvement on the stock or Stang bridge at any rate.
Yeah, I'm gonna cut that screw down just as a matter of course- the saddle is gonna be way back on the thick E all the time anyways.
LOL @ Franny Scott!
