So, last night i skanked a 1970s Laney 60watt valve head.
On the back there is a dial to change the ohm setting. It works set at 16 ohms but not at 8 ohms. No sound at all.
I think (will check) my cab at rehearsal is 16 ohms but the one at home loaded with Celestions is 8 ohms.
1/ Will it damage the head using the 8 ohm cab?
2/ What could possibly be wrong with it to not work on the 8 ohm setting?
Thanks.
Question for valve amp people
Moderated By: mods
Re: Question for valve amp people
disconnected leads on the switch in 8 ohm setting?
aen wrote:hotrodperlmutter wrote:being butt fucked by a lion is better than the stock [CIJ Jaguar] bridge pup.
Re: Question for valve amp people
Defo don't use the 16ohm setting into an 8ohm cab- not sure on why it doesn't work. Sounds like an odd mod to have done, so I guess something's just come loose or broken?
You could rewire your cab at home to run at 16 maybe, presuming it's more than one speaker?
You could rewire your cab at home to run at 16 maybe, presuming it's more than one speaker?
I have an 80s laney with a similar mystery. When I bought it the guy told me that it's output transformer had blown up and been replaced and that it would only work on 16 ohms. But since it's really a matter of just connecting a few more wires.. seemed wierd to me. I've never tried the other settings and always gone into 16 ohm cabs just in case.
I really should get it checked out, since everything else the guy told me about the amp has slowly been proven wrong, he had the wrong fuses in it (how the fuck do you do that when they're written next to the bloody slot?) and he'd shoved in mismatched output tubes... I had a look inside and if the transformer blew it was ages ago because it doesn't look like a replacement. Also I know the last guy was running both outputs on the 16 ohm setting, which according the manual you're not supposed to do and I think means it was actually putting out 32? I think he was creating his own problems through shear ignorance.
anyway.
What kind of Laney is it? a Klipp?
Pics?
I really should get it checked out, since everything else the guy told me about the amp has slowly been proven wrong, he had the wrong fuses in it (how the fuck do you do that when they're written next to the bloody slot?) and he'd shoved in mismatched output tubes... I had a look inside and if the transformer blew it was ages ago because it doesn't look like a replacement. Also I know the last guy was running both outputs on the 16 ohm setting, which according the manual you're not supposed to do and I think means it was actually putting out 32? I think he was creating his own problems through shear ignorance.
anyway.
What kind of Laney is it? a Klipp?
Pics?
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Fran
- The Curmudgeon
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Thanks for all the advice.
Its a mid 70s 'L60' PA head, but they were used more by guitarists apparently. I'll make sure my other cab is wired at 16 ohms until i can get it serviced.
The singer in Master Charger offered it me for £50 but said it was broken, i fiddled with it and got it working in 10 minutes, much to his annoyance
He'd had it set on 8 ohms and had given up on it.
Its a mid 70s 'L60' PA head, but they were used more by guitarists apparently. I'll make sure my other cab is wired at 16 ohms until i can get it serviced.
The singer in Master Charger offered it me for £50 but said it was broken, i fiddled with it and got it working in 10 minutes, much to his annoyance
He'd had it set on 8 ohms and had given up on it.
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hotrodperlmutter
- crescent fresh
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laterallateral
- Traynor or Death
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Nice score! The suggestion that the original transformer has been replaced by a cheaper* transformer that only does 16 ohms sounds a distinct possibility. Good thing he didn't blow it up with no load (on the 8 ohm setting).
*If you're winding a transformer for 8 and 16 ohms, you'd use heavier gauge copper (more expensive) for the first (8 ohm) half of the output winding. You also have the additional labour time/cost of switching gauge and soldering to the 8 ohm tap.
*If you're winding a transformer for 8 and 16 ohms, you'd use heavier gauge copper (more expensive) for the first (8 ohm) half of the output winding. You also have the additional labour time/cost of switching gauge and soldering to the 8 ohm tap.
