Buffing for n00bs

[Fran]

Wondered if anyone can rcommend a compound (that is available in the UK) for getting that final shine on a geetar body?
Also, any tips on buffing and attachments to use with an standard drill. I've got a bit of an 'orange peel' thang going on with this JS body but i reckon i'll get it out with some 1200 grit but its obviously gonna need buffing up after.
Thanks.

[stewart]

try that T-cut stuff. it's for cars but i think hurb has used it with success. halfords'll stock it.

[Thom]

try that T-cut stuff. it's for cars but i think hurb has used it with success. halfords'll stock it.

+1 Hurb used it on his faux XII with great success, looked really nice after some elbow grease!

[Hurb]

this is the stuff I use



you get it in the colour the guitar is painted in. wet your cloth and rub like fuck till it shines up...takes a lot of work mind. get the finest wet and dry paper you can get from halfords to smooth the finish before hand(with water also).

[astro]

I don't know if this is available in the UK, but I use 3M Finesse-It II. It's very effective and requires minimal effort.

It doesn't even need a drill or buffing machine (but you can use them if you want, I just do it by hand). After wet sanding up to 2000 grit, I just squeeze some Finesse-It II onto the guitar's body, rub it around with an old clean cloth, and wipe it off. It takes literally no more than 2 or 3 minutes at most to get a mirror-like shine. I bought a 1L bottle a few years ago, and I've done about 4 bodies with it and only used about 10% of the bottle.

[Fran]

wet your cloth and rub like fuck till it shines up...takes a lot of work mind. get the finest wet and dry paper you can get from halfords to smooth the finish before hand(with water also).

Cheers dude. Cant i use a buffer attachment on the drill? This is gonna take some serious rubbing otherwise

[Gavin]

A drill rubs off all the mojo, it needs to be done by hand or the mojo arrows will be pointing all different directions at once.

[Hurb]

wet your cloth and rub like fuck till it shines up...takes a lot of work mind. get the finest wet and dry paper you can get from halfords to smooth the finish before hand(with water also).

Cheers dude. Cant i use a buffer attachment on the drill? This is gonna take some serious rubbing otherwise

I have no idea, I cant see why not. There's only one way to find out

[Fran]

I read somewhere you can get 'burn throughs' if your not careful but yeah... im on it

[mezzio13]

1200

then

1500

then

2000

with a sanding block.

then the stuff hurb mentioned.

[DGNR8]

I go 800, 1200, 1500, 2000.

Nuffing for boobs!

[Fran]

Went to various places today and the finest wet and dry you can get round here is 1000. So it looks like perhaps 800>1000>T-Cut.
Buffing/Polishing accessories for a drill are ridiculously priced so im going HurBz route of rag & elbow grease.
No rush on this. When i have no work whatsoever (probably next week) the project will help me retain my sanity.

[Pens]

Did you try an automotive supply store? I get my high grit sandpaper from auto supply stores.

[Fran]

aye, and diy stores.
The Uk is shite for stuff like that, always has been since i strated messing around with guitars.

[Phil O'Keefe]

If you stop at 1000 grit, you're going to be in for a LOT of work with the T-Cut / Finesse It. I mean, a LOT of work; especially if you're going to be doing it by hand.

[Fran]

Well, i've got a lot of time on my hands phil

[Bacchus]

Try going to a garage where they do body work, and ask them where they get the finer grits. They may well sell you a handful if they're dead on.

[Fran]

Got bored today, went 800>1000>T-Cut. It looks better than i thought it would, still has a relic'd look about it as i wanted (65 'Stang neck bitches) but its smart enough.

[Bacchus]

Looks really good.

Be sure to move that T-Cut before you sleepily put it into a morning brew, though.

[mezzio13]

hahaha!

Seriously though, it looks real good.

DGNR8, I left it to assumption that the lower grits would be used.