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Does the pin line up with the pin hole on the Jagmaster headstock without any drilling? I'm talking about the single-pin Schaller version, not the Fender-Schallers with 2 pins.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Guit ... cs#details

Are these the correct conversion bushings?

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Tune ... hings.html

Thanks for your help.

i would probably not do that, just because it's a waste of money.

sorry, i have nothing constructive to add, per usual.

Never been mad about locking tuners. Normal tuners have always worked for me unless I hit my guitars with sledgehammers, which I don't, and not just because my sledgehammer is all rusty and would probably cut my delicate fingers, but because..

Yeah, locking tuners are a bit bum.

Better off just finding some used Grovers . Good tuners cheap. Not sure if they'd fit or not . .

You won't need the conversion bushings but I wouldn't count on the hole lining up.

Conversion bushings are for using vintage spec tuners with a guitar drilled for 10mm posts. The CIC Squiers already have 10mm posts and apart from the pins the locking ones should go right in (though it is not entirely uncommon to have to ream the holes a tad when replacing factory tuners).

It's impossible to keep the thing in tune with the stock tuners. 11s help but it's still a pain. At first, I was just going to upgrade to a better tuner with a higher ratio and split post. Now I figure, if I'm going to go to the trouble of changing them, I might as well pay the extra. Then I'll not only get the convenience of easier string changes but maybe the string locking will allow me to use 10s without it going out of tune. Plus, the Schallers come in a single-pin model which looks like it's the same as the single pin of the stock tuners, thus no drilling.

Thanks Paul for your help. I must have been writing my previous reply while you posted.

Are you sure it's the tuners and not the nut or bridge? Stratocaster tremolos can be very tempermental to things like changing string gauge.

I don't use the tremolo so I have the bridge screwed down. I re-intonated after changing gauges so I don't think it's that. Is there something else it could be? The nut's a little high but otherwise I don't know how to evaluate it. Do you think getting it regulated will fix my problem?

Thanks for your help.

gailstorm9 wrote:I don't use the tremolo so I have the bridge screwed down. I re-intonated after changing gauges so I don't think it's that. Is there something else it could be? The nut's a little high but otherwise I don't know how to evaluate it. Do you think getting it regulated will fix my problem?

Thanks for your help.

if you never touch the trem u do not need locking tuners....I would put money that the nut is the problem.....spend the money on going and getting a professional set up from a reputable luthier and have them file the nut..... this will do wonders for the tuning stability.... more than likely the strings are binding cuz the nut slots are too tight..... and it u can push it out of tune when fretting a string hard it deffinately needs deeper slots too

I had an MIM strat with locking tuners and they really did not do much

^ this is what I was going to say. Also not sure what it has for string trees, but the roller trees can help to some extent. But I would guess you need your nut filed.

Sounds like it's time for a setup.

Thanks everybody!

gailstorm9 wrote:I don't use the tremolo so I have the bridge screwed down. I re-intonated after changing gauges so I don't think it's that. Is there something else it could be? The nut's a little high but otherwise I don't know how to evaluate it. Do you think getting it regulated will fix my problem?

Thanks for your help.

even when the bridge is flat on the body the screws shouldn't be all the way down. that can muff up the bridge plate