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How do I install a tuneomatic on my stang?
Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 10:53 pm
by astrozombie
After a solid hour of googling and searching forums, I've decided to just log in and ask: How do I install a tune o matic in my mustang?
this is the one I bought.
gibson ABR-1.
i read over at jagstang that what I have to do is similar to taping the mustang bridge so it doesnt wiggle, just tape it the fuck up until its snug.
any tips on how to do this??
Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 11:47 pm
by foofoo982
Always seemed easier to set up the Mustang bridge properly since it's designed for the Mustang's neck radius. Easiest way would be to somehow install the studs into the Mustang tremolo system, or tape it a lot/
Re: How do I install a tuneomatic on my stang?
Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 11:53 pm
by StevePirates
astrozombie wrote:
any tips on how to do this??
Very carefully.
Re: How do I install a tuneomatic on my stang?
Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 1:33 am
by Berto
StevePirates wrote:
any tips on how to do this??
Don't
Re: How do I install a tuneomatic on my stang?
Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 1:42 am
by astrozombie
Berto wrote:StevePirates wrote:
any tips on how to do this??
Don't
Come on man, I posted this because I need some info on how to get it done, not to get this kind of stuff from you guys.
Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 1:53 am
by Billy3000
I honestly don't think tune-o-matics are meant to fit on mustangs. I don't think it will line up with the existing holes for the mustang bridge, and the string spacing won't be the same. Just cause Kurt did it doesn't mean it's a good idea.
Obviously there's a way to do it, because Kurt did it, but I just don't think it's a great idea.
Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 1:56 am
by StevePirates
Reroute, filler, great caution.
I'd be curious to know whether the new bridges on the CP Jags fit the holes on the Mustang. That might be a better bridge for you to try.
Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:14 am
by Ankhanu
Pretty much. Remove the cups, fill the holes, drill new ones. you're going to need to be very careful about alignment.
Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 4:22 am
by SGJarrod
StevePirates wrote:Reroute, filler, great caution.
I'd be curious to know whether the new bridges on the CP Jags fit the holes on the Mustang. That might be a better bridge for you to try.
Yeah I would by the Fender Adjust-o-matic like Blue Beard said
its $40 here
http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/guitar_index.htm
Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 6:19 am
by poorhillbilly
Don't listen to the anybody. heres some info what happened with kurts
http://www.kurtsequipment.com/
Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:20 am
by othomas2
... with a Shot gun ?
What can possibly go wrong from taping up the posts and giving it a try ?
I can't see how we can really help much beyond that.
Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:28 am
by kypdurron
when I tried a TOM on my Jazzmaster all I did was take the JM bridge out and drop the TOM into the existing timbles. No tape, no screws, no nothing. it doesn't get much easier. I was pleased with it exept for the radius mismatch.
Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:11 am
by poorhillbilly
''First, the nut had to be cut for heavier strings, then the neck shimmed for a better bridge angle with the cardboard backings from hotel stationery pads, and a Gotoh Tune-O-Matic bridge was installed. Earnie also had to modify the tailpiece to block the vibrato, which Kurt hated. He would remove the two springs for the vibrato bar, add washers to the posts beneath the bridge plate, which locked it down to the plate. Lastly, Earnie would flip the tailpiece around allowing the strings to feed directly through the tailpiece, not under, and the ball ends of the strings would fit in the tailpiece's recesses ''
Dude Kurt didn't give a shit. That shit went straight on and thats the way it went.
Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:51 am
by johnnyseven
I had a jazzmaster once with a tune-o-matic and at the same time one with mustang saddles. The string spacings on the tune-o-matic are alot closer together than with mustang saddles, I really didn't like it at all - picking strings became much more difficult due to the closeness of the strings. Just a warning in case this is likely to be a problem for you. Mustang saddle also have quite a drastic curve (radius) to them which you may not be able to get using a tune-o-matic so it might feel and play kind of strange.
Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 4:38 pm
by Billy3000
poorhillbilly wrote:''First, the nut had to be cut for heavier strings, then the neck shimmed for a better bridge angle with the cardboard backings from hotel stationery pads, and a Gotoh Tune-O-Matic bridge was installed. Earnie also had to modify the tailpiece to block the vibrato, which Kurt hated. He would remove the two springs for the vibrato bar, add washers to the posts beneath the bridge plate, which locked it down to the plate. Lastly, Earnie would flip the tailpiece around allowing the strings to feed directly through the tailpiece, not under, and the ball ends of the strings would fit in the tailpiece's recesses ''
Dude Kurt didn't give a shit. That shit went straight on and thats the way it went.
You'd better find out what hotels he got the stationary pads for the neck shims from to make sure you get teh kurdtz tonez correct.
Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:08 am
by poorhillbilly
Portland's Stay'n'Pay
Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:41 pm
by Joey
With the ABR TOM, wrap tape around the post until it's snug. If you wanna get techincal, drop dowels into the pot/thimbles and drill out the new post hole. On the Jagstang, the ground wire is hidden under the bridge pot/thimble. So if you pull em out you gotta make sure you reconnect it, otherwise the guitar will be noisey.
I think I used the Modern TOM on my Jagstang. I used it cause it had a flathead adjustment for the bridge height. I had to drill out the Jagstang body for the larger bridge pot/thimbles. I offset my bridge bass side back at an angle like you'd see on a Gibson (better intonation).
Last year I shaved the bottom of my TOM bridge down using a belt sander. The TOM is a tall bridge, I used to set the TOM flush with the tremolo plate. And would shim the neck to fine tune the action. After I shaved the bridge, I was able to remove the shims and use the bridge height adjustment more accurately.
Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:50 pm
by Joey
Shaved the bridge
Shaved the post and reslotted it for a flathead
Now able to drop the bridge lower
My Jagstang
