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To make a strat non-floating bridge, should I loosen/tighten the two screws on the back?
(I suppose loosen)

And my pal played my strat for a while and he did the 'floating' one.. he has loosened all the screws on the bridge too..except for the
first one and the last one the four middle ones are loosened (not screwed tightly in).

I dont use the tremolo much, and it seems to go out of tune much faster than it used to.


+ I suppose there is a thread like this, but oh.

tighten so it holds the back of the trem plate down harder. or loosen and put a small block of wood between the trem block and the back of the route (only if you don't use it at all)

So I have screwed the screws in at their most (less than 1cm of space between the 'screw part' and 'guitar body') but still the bridge is up.
some pictures maybe help

Does the plate sit flat when you loosen the strings? If it does your choices are add more springs, or block it. What gauge strings do you use?

I actually didnt try to loosen, because Im scared of f-ing up this guitar, once I tried to change the tremolo block, it all went wrong.
Anyways, I use 10s/11s to 52 something very medium.

The front screws there are sitting on an angle. The more you tighten them the more the bridge "goes up". I'm talking about the screws on the top front of the bridge. The screws for the spring claw should be tightened as you have done, it should pull the block back down if you loosen the front screws I described.

Best bet is to stick a block of wood in there.

Good point I hadn't noticed how far those were screwed down

Incidentally, "floating" means the bridge can move forwards AND backwards; non-floating doesn't necessarily mean that the tremolo has been locked into place.

It's just semantics, I know, but..

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You are indeed correct but he wanted non floating...

maybe obvious observation: did you tune the strings again after you screwed in the claw? screwing in the claw like that should make things go sharp, re-tuning the guitar should make the bridge go down more.

dezb1 wrote:You are indeed correct but he wanted non floating...

I am a massive jerk and presumed he wanted to lock it, sorry

Thanks for the quick replies.
Ill try to do Pens advice...

more reeesponz tomorrow.

you could try to move the outer springs to the outer claws for more even pull on the block. i cranked mine all the way down and it's flush with the body.

3 springs do 10-46's easily (They do on mine). Your springs might be weak. If not go to four springs. Oh, I forgot, tighten down the six bridge screws. Be warned, it turned mine into a wimpy twangcaster on the bridge pickup. I run it like you have there except my springs line up with the coresponding holes. I think that works better for floating. It usually makes it sound fatter too.

Would he need to de-tune to do all of this tightening stuff? I think they are easy adjustments after you get used to the idea. I haven't had a strat in a while. Weird how that works.

i don't think it's actually placing much more pressure on the strings, but yeah, when mucking with the trem you should always take a little tension off to prevent snappage/stretchage/sacrilege.

hotrodperlmutter wrote:you could try to move the outer springs to the outer claws for more even pull on the block. i cranked mine all the way down and it's flush with the body.

Nah, he's got max pull there by putting the springs at their longest point, the outer points of the block to the inner claws. That'll do, it's just because he has those screws too tight on the fulcrum. If not, he has weak as shit springs. And I'm drunk so take this with a grain of whiskey.

I've never had to turn the screws in the back.

For floating - loosen the screws on top so you can pull the trem right up and right down. Next, use less springs; if 3 is too much try 2. Like the others have said, you also need to experiment with having straight or angled springs - your guitar will be different depending on the strings you use etc. When you have this, tighten them back up so they are touching the bridge plate but do not affect operation. Some people only use the two outer screws and raise the middle four so they are not part of the operation. I've not had to. You WILL have to sort out your action out after because the position of the bridge plate will completely change.

For non-floating - use more springs; you may as well use 5 to be sure. The bridge plate should now be flush with the body. Adjust screws on the bridge plate so that they sit comfortably touching the bridge plate, but DON'T over-tighten.

Anybody else read the title of this post in Zoidberg's? voice?

It's obviously the top screws that are on too tight. You have to loosen them a bit and then the bridge will sit flush.