1st time bare wood paint job (Mustang) FINISHED

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 1:46 pm

Hi, I'm gonna paint a bare wood alder mustang body soon (just ordered it, so still might take a while to arrive).
I just want a nice proper finish, not a pro top notch kinda result.

Already did some research but still have a few questions left (hope somebody can help):

1. do I have to tape of some parts (neckpocket, bridgeholes,...) ?
If not: doesn't it get to tight to place in the neck or bridge mounting cubs

2. does it really needs to dry a month after the few layers of clear gloss before the final sanding (and polishing)?

Thanks for any advice

UlricvonCatalyst · Post by **UlricvonCatalyst** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 2:02 pm

You should maybe check out the reranch site (google them, you lazy sod) - apparently they have a really good guide to finishing/refinishing guitars on there.

I just slapped 2 coats of blackboard paint on my Mustang (and didn't have any trouble with the neck or cubs).

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 2:05 pm

^I did check the ReRanch site (even bought my color paint with 'm)
Maybe I misunderstood some things 'cause my first language ain't English.
Thanks for the tip btw (gonna reread it)

Joey · Post by **Joey** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 11:47 pm

They also have a forum at that site.

If you don't want to wait a month (-/+) for the finish to cure... use poly instead. Can't have your cake and eat it.

DGNR8 · Post by **DGNR8** » Wed Feb 29, 2012 2:28 am

Tape the neck pocket so that you don't get a buildup of paint that will cause an irregular fit.

Reranch recommends 3 coats per day spaced apart. You can do more, but you risk lumps (called orange peel). They recommend waiting six weeks to cure but you can wet sand after a few days. The paint will still be out-gasing solvent, which it what makes it possible to spray. The solvent dries and leaves a hard coat. After you wet sand you may have a nice finish, but after it cures, it may shrink. This means your finish may not be perfectly smooth or look older than it is. Some people don't care. I like it.

To wet sand you should use mineral oil (or baby oil) with 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 grit wet dry paper. If you don't spray enough coats, try not to sand too much and hit primer or wood. That is called burn through. Curing helps prevent this, but so does spraying enough clear. You can buy clear nitro at Home Depot or Lowes (called Minwax in black can). Make sure you buy a respirator. Don't breathe this shit.

Does the body come with screw holes? You will want them before you paint. You can paint over them, then ease the screws in at first so you don't chip.

SKC Willie · Post by **SKC Willie** » Wed Feb 29, 2012 3:19 am

yes, tape neck pocket.

everything else you don't need to tape off.

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Wed Feb 29, 2012 11:30 am

Thanks guys. Some really good advices (especially for taping off the neck pocket)
The body doesn't have screwholes so I'll pre-drill 'm before starting to paint (good tip)

I have some nitrocellulose left but I was thinking of using a poly or something alike.

P.S.: I assume the wetsanding is only after the final clear coat?

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 3:06 pm

You NEED grain filler and preferably a sanding sealer like Shellac or as the nritro dries the grain WILL stand out.

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Mon Mar 05, 2012 10:06 am

Thanks to all.
Hope it 'll work out fine

DGNR8 · Post by **DGNR8** » Tue Mar 06, 2012 1:36 pm

Wet sand at the end. Sometimes I do a light sand after primer to give it the best surface. By then it has already got sealer, filler, and primer to start building the paint shell. You could follow the same steps to finish wood or minor car repairs.

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Thu Mar 08, 2012 8:39 am

At the end...you mean after the final clear coat and before the polishing?

Another (maybe silly) thing popped up: when do I predrill the holes (for pickguard and plates...)
I assume after the sealer/filler and before the primer...?

Thanks to everybody

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Wed Apr 11, 2012 8:23 am

After being almost a month in customs the body arrived.
Gave it a layer of grainfiller (only 1 but it looked an felt smooth enough).
And now there's already 3 layers of primer on it.
I sanded her (320grit) between layer 2 and 3 'cause I had a little runner.

Think I'm gonna add 2 or 3 more layer of primer before the color paint...

Should I sand it with 400/600 grit before the color paint or isn't this necessary

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 8:45 pm

Primer is done (did 5 layers)
Predrilled the holes so here's how she kinda will look
Maybe gonna go for one of those cream-colored pearl guards and a JB jr

After the holes were done I've sprayed the first layer's of Sonic Blue...

To what grit do I have to wet-sand it down after the last layer of color paint ?
Is 800 enough ?

Thanks

cur · Post by **cur** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 5:18 pm

Are you clear coating it?

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 9:51 pm

^ Yes, I'm about to start clearcoating it in a few days.
Have 4 layers of color on it now but had to stop after nr.4 due to a few small paintruns.
Gonna leave it to dry for a day and then ligtly sand them off before spraying the last layer of color...

Then preparation (800grit wet-sanding ???) for the clear coat...

serfx · Post by **serfx** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 10:00 pm

i'd drill the holes after painting & clear coating, but before the clear coat has time to actually set..
or before clear coating..

though myself, i just do it all after..

cur · Post by **cur** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 3:55 pm

So the problem with wet sanding when you have the holes drilled is that the wood will swell up like little pimples when it gets wet. I would probably put a drop or two of super glue or epoxy in the holes to seal the wood first. Wet sand to 800 should be fine if you are going to clear coat. I like to close my eyes and feel the surface for irregularities. Your clear coat base coats should level everything up. Once that is above the surface of the color coat then you can finish that through the grits.

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 5:16 pm

Yeah I've been thinking about those holes and the wet-sanding problem (a little late though...)
Think I'm gonna use your tip on lightly glueing the holes and
I'm also gonna try to 'moist-sand' in the aera around the holes instead of really 'wet-sanding'.

Sprayed the last color layer today...so tomorrow gonna start wet-sanding
during my precious spare-time the next days.

Thanks again for al those tips

Mo Law-ka · Post by **Mo Law-ka** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 5:31 pm

wow, that looks great so far. I'm looking forward to seeing the final product!

Silenus · Post by **Silenus** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:21 am

^ thanks, always nice to receive some words of support : )

Gonna take a week or more now before the clearcoats go on 'cause it's gonna rain this week and
need to spray outside...
I'll certainly post pics when something new is done...

New questions I have (as the title says, I'm a 'guitarpaint-virgin', nd no I'm not a hot looking virgin ; ) ),
I'm a bit troubled by all different sources I've found on the net (English ain't my first language):
1. As I now understand, After the last layer of color, I wetsand 'till 800 grit so the whole body is dull/mat ?
2. What do I do, when I have runs in between the clearcoats ? And do I sand in between the clearcoats?

(It's clear to me that after the last clearcoat I have to wetsand it to very fin grit (1500 or so) before I start to polish it)

(Thanks to all for the good support and advices...couldn't have done it without all the good info on here)