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I'm wanting to replace the nuts on my Jag HH Special, TEH KURDTZ Mustang, and Squier Duo-Sonic.

Pretty sure I'll put a TUSQ nut in all of em, or perhaps a Fender Brass Nut in the Duo-Sonic since it would add to its golden mystique, if it would fit.

Here's the brass nut, however its got a curved bottom, don't know if that will work.


And the TUSQs:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddl ... _Nuts.html


Now, the Mustang and Duo-Sonic have a nut width of 1.625", the Jag is 1.650.
What I'd like to know, if anyone can tell me, is
1) for the Jag, if I put a 1.625" (1-5/8") nut in it, since I can't find any 1.650" graphite or TUSQ nuts, would the guitar end up utterly bollocksed?
2) regarding the shape of the TUSQ nuts, can anyone tell me if, for any/all of these 3 guitars, do they need a flat-bottomed, or curve-bottomed nut?

Thanks immensely - and please only answer if you are absolutely certain if these guitars have a curved-bottom, or flat-bottomed nut. I mean, I could find out myself by removing them but I'd like to know beforehand so I can buy the nut first, then have it replaced, instead of removing the nut then waiting for the replacement to arrive.

Cymbaline wrote:I could find out myself by removing them but I'd like to know beforehand so I can buy the nut first, then have it replaced, instead of removing the nut then waiting for the replacement to arrive.

Honestly, just remove it first. You can still use it because it will be held in fine by string tension. If you remove it and look at the actual item you're replacing you can be 100% sure.

If you're getting pre slotted then it needs to be for your nut width or the string spacing will be bad with outer strings too closet the edge. I recommend cutting your own slots if you can't find the exact one.

Even if your new nut and nut slot have rounded bottoms you can be sure of good fit by putting sand paperon the wood by the nut and rubbing the nut to the right radius. This can do for flat ones that need to be curved too. I have photos of this somewhere

Tremolo , Graphite or Graphtech
Fixed , Bone , no plastic , Cow bone.

I use parts of my femurZ I use cow bone. Cut along the edge with Exacto and then tap it on one end. Glue it back with yellow wood glue, not CA

Be sure to use a radius gauge or make one

http://www.pickguardian.com/pickguardia ... Gauges.pdf

Johno wrote:Be sure to use a radius gauge or make one

http://www.pickguardian.com/pickguardia ... Gauges.pdf

Useful if you can't tell the radius from online specs or if you do stuff all the time as a tech, but for replacing most nuts simply shaping the bottom of the nut is done easily and as I described above - tape a bit of sandpaper on the wood of the first fret nearest nut, rub the bottom of the net across it with even pressure - job done. Shaping the top is more about sanding it AFTER slot depth has been optimised for action, so the slots are a little over half a string deep on the wound ones and almost as deep as the plains. I've knocked a decent graphtech nut out in an hour from scratch. Damnit I must get my photos up to show.

Cymbaline wrote: Here's the brass nut, however its got a curved bottom, don't know if that will work.

You can get a flat blank here (second choice). As the Yngwie nut is meant for an American '70s style Strat it's not going to be a great fit for the CV Duo. You would have to file it narrower anyway, and as Dave says you then run the risk of the string spacing being a tad too wide (it is wider on American spec Fenders than imports anyway, nevermind going from Strat to Duo specs). Plus yeah, 7.25" radius necks are reverse-radius on the back of the nut and 9.5" radius necks have completely flat bases to their nut channels, so you don't want that curved brass Fender nut.

http://guitarpartsresource.com/guitar_nutsbrass.htm