ShortScale.org

So I was thinking about picking up another Jaguar of some sort, umming and ahhing over the new Squiers and stuff. And I was thinking specifically about the bridge and about all the intense hate I feel for it and its flaws. But the only thing that really bugs me that badly is the fact that it moves back and forth in the thimbles. I was looking at the Mastery Bridge and thinking "It's nice. It solves the inherent problems. But if I could just buy two new thimbles machined to fit into the existing holes but made of thick enough steel/brass that they completely enclose the legs of a Mustang bridge to stop it moving, that would be fine. And cheaper. And less massively wanky."

I've seen people using wraps of thick plastic sheet, or tape, but it never seems like the best solution. Is there any real way to be able to measure out a good length of steel tube in the exact thickness required to sit around the leg posts of a mustang bridge and inside Jag thimbles? I'd like to have the sound transference that a nice big piece of steel gives (ooh, look how blooz lawyer I am) rather than wrapping posts in gunky tape. Another great option would be some way of installing a tunomatic (again, without bodge jobs like using tape) that was entirely reversible. Like having TOM thimbles that would fit nicely into the existing Jag bridge holes.

I guess there's just not as much money in making a nice set of thimbles rather than making some fancy pants new bridge, though.

I local machine shop could do that for you in 2 mins out of some steel rod, if you had accurate measurements.


A mate of mine could do this, but it would need something like a "bulk buy" scenario to make it worthwhile him considering it.

rps-10 wrote:I local machine shop could do that for you in 2 mins out of some steel rod, if you had accurate measurements.


A mate of mine could do this, but it would need something like a "bulk buy" scenario to make it worthwhile him considering it.

Could we possibly have a shortscale whip-round? I wonder how many people would like this. Having drilled out the bridge holes on my current Jag it doesn't make much difference for me now but I'd still be interested in case I buy more Jags in the future (as I intend to).

Even possible modifications to a possible future Squier Jag don't bother me enough to want to do this, but I've been staring longingly at a hollow thinline Japanese Jaguar for ages now and it's the bridge that puts me off, and the price that puts me off making any permanent mods to it if I ever decide to take the plunge.

I've had masking tape wrapped round the bridge posts on my JM's for years and it's always sounded good to me.

I used electrical tape on my mustang, jazzmaster and jaguar (all long gone) and I never had any problems.

Agree with J7 and holyCATZ. Tape does the job eric, you are just complicating the situation because deep down you want a Mastery but cannot admit it.

I read on another forum that aluminium plumbers tape is good as it doesn't dampen vibrations like masking tape. You can get it from Ebay for a quid or two.

If you want metal to metal contact, why not shim it with a small nail on each side between the thimble and the post?
I don't understand why people want to lock the bridge, it's supposed to move, so that the intonation points travel with the strings, so that chords stay in tune when you vibrato them.

TheBurbz wrote:I read on another forum that aluminium plumbers tape is good as it doesn't dampen vibrations like masking tape. You can get it from Ebay for a quid or two.

Interesting.

TheBurbz wrote:I read on another forum that aluminium plumbers tape is good as it doesn't dampen vibrations like masking tape. You can get it from Ebay for a quid or two.

In a similar vein, I've put coiled aluminum foil strips in the thimbles of my (now traded away) Jaguar and mashed the bridge pins in, in order to keep it from rocking. Worked well enough...

my 70s mustang project body has had the bridge holes filled with wood/wood filler and re-drilled so that the mustang bridge can't rock at all. I'm guessing this was done in the 70s by the original
owner, so obviously this idea's been around a long time.

Are you guys shifting the position of the bridge with your hand/pick or something when playing? Why is the rocking bridge a problem?

Many people cite a lack of sustain - after all the bridge contacts the body through two tiny screw tips - but a lack of screaming Les Paul sustain is the difference between a Jag and other guitars - instead the string energy goes into "ghost tones" behind the bridge.
For my money a hardtail Jag with fixed bridge and humbuckers is a Les Paul with a bolt-on neck - i.e. it's a Jag in looks alone, and not what I want. Other people do want aspects of that so I guess the fixed bridge is a point somewhere on the line between the two.

Here is what I did today. Snug fitting bushing.

Here's yer solution. Unending sustain because it's made from tons of steel bolted into firmly into place. Sweet trem action because each string has a roller.

Also pictured, rare unobtainium threaded CuNtForLife magnets.

cur wrote:Here is what I did today. Snug fitting bushing.

uh whaa??



by jove, that is just the pipe! details pls!

Mages wrote: by jove, that is just the pipe! details pls!

I went to the hardware store with the parts and was just looking for a piece of rod that would fit the cup and the I was going to drill it. But I found this aluminum tubing that fit the cup and the post very well. The details on the tube sticker are: KS engineering, stock #3032, Aluminum tube, 5/16 x 0.35 ( 7.94mm x 0.889mm).

I just measured it and made a cut to length with a pipe cutter like you would use to cut copper pipe for plumbing. Then I took some sand paper and smoother out the burnish at the cut edge. The tube cost $2.50. I still have about 11" of tube left.

timhulio wrote:Also pictured, rare unobtainium threaded CuNtForLife magnets.