The Idiot-Proof Mustang Series Mod... (pics)
Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:21 am
I've always liked the stock wiring on Mustangs but what works great sitting in the bedroom is not necessarily the best setup when I'm rehearsing or on stage, so I've been working on making the Mustang work better for me.
Ever since making my '73 RI my primary guitar, I've had a few issues with the stock wiring, especially since I wired a series option into it. I'm not a fan of most wiring diagrams for hot-rodded Mustangs, because I feel like they're hard to remember. So instead, I used a push-pull on the volume knob. That worked great, until I actually took the guitar out to shows and started playing more exuberantly, which would result in knocking a slide switch and turning off the volume.
After a few different attempts, I think I finally have my ideal Mustang wiring setup. It finally does everything I want it to do. The wiring setup consists of:
1. No slide switches at all.
2. A 3-way On-On-On DPDT switch for Neck-NB Parallel-NB Series option, in between the two control pots.
3. A push-pull switch on the Tone knob (or Vol, if you prefer) for Bridge On, regardless of where the DPDT is pointing.
So there are four pickup combinations. Bridge (activated w/ the Push-Pull), Bridge-Neck Series, Bridge-Neck Parallel, and Neck only.
Anyway, this is idiot proof because none of the switches can be hit in the flight path of the strumming hand, and because no matter where the switches are pointing, there is always sound. There is no kill position at all. Even a toggle or a blade switch, IMO, is not always ideal because I'm prone to hitting those things inadvertently. That just can't happen with my newest setup. Also, I think it's easy to remember and use.
There are downsides, however. It's a fair bit of wiring, and also your pickup leads will probably need a splice to reach all the way into the control area. Also the Mustang has a very shallow control route and you have to be very tidy with your wiring. You need to drill the control plate and you also need an On-On-On DPDT switch, which are not cheap. I use the All Parts one and I highly recommend it, it's better than the DiMarzio one.
If phasing is important to you, you can easily add a push-pull on the other pot as well. I often like to wire a strangle switch as a push-pull as well, but I'm not doing that on this guitar.
I figure you want the wiring diagram so here it is:

Here are some various other pics:



Ever since making my '73 RI my primary guitar, I've had a few issues with the stock wiring, especially since I wired a series option into it. I'm not a fan of most wiring diagrams for hot-rodded Mustangs, because I feel like they're hard to remember. So instead, I used a push-pull on the volume knob. That worked great, until I actually took the guitar out to shows and started playing more exuberantly, which would result in knocking a slide switch and turning off the volume.
After a few different attempts, I think I finally have my ideal Mustang wiring setup. It finally does everything I want it to do. The wiring setup consists of:
1. No slide switches at all.
2. A 3-way On-On-On DPDT switch for Neck-NB Parallel-NB Series option, in between the two control pots.
3. A push-pull switch on the Tone knob (or Vol, if you prefer) for Bridge On, regardless of where the DPDT is pointing.
So there are four pickup combinations. Bridge (activated w/ the Push-Pull), Bridge-Neck Series, Bridge-Neck Parallel, and Neck only.
Anyway, this is idiot proof because none of the switches can be hit in the flight path of the strumming hand, and because no matter where the switches are pointing, there is always sound. There is no kill position at all. Even a toggle or a blade switch, IMO, is not always ideal because I'm prone to hitting those things inadvertently. That just can't happen with my newest setup. Also, I think it's easy to remember and use.
There are downsides, however. It's a fair bit of wiring, and also your pickup leads will probably need a splice to reach all the way into the control area. Also the Mustang has a very shallow control route and you have to be very tidy with your wiring. You need to drill the control plate and you also need an On-On-On DPDT switch, which are not cheap. I use the All Parts one and I highly recommend it, it's better than the DiMarzio one.
If phasing is important to you, you can easily add a push-pull on the other pot as well. I often like to wire a strangle switch as a push-pull as well, but I'm not doing that on this guitar.
I figure you want the wiring diagram so here it is:

Here are some various other pics:


