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Both of my Mustangs are currently setup like this. The bridges are flat against the tremolo plate. I was wondering if there is an ideal or minimum height that should be used when setting up a Mustang bridge.

Both Mustangs intonate properly, don't have neck shims and the actions are ok. My Jaguar with a Mustang bridge is set much higher and the neck is shimmed. Obviously the bridge on the Jaguar has to be higher because the distance the strings travel from the tremolo to the bridge.

What is the bridge height like on your Mustang?

Mine is a little higher than yours. I have the neck shimmed. I can get fine action etc without the shim but I find that with it and the slightly higher bridge I get better snap out of the strings due to the increased angle down to the cigar tube. I have that set almost as low as possible.

created a SHORTSCALE GEAR DEMO of this topic with many mustang bridges

AWAITING SHORTSCALE GEAR DEMO PASSWORD so i can upload this shit

My JS and Jag are about the same, no shims on either though.
I don't usually use the buzzstop or the wound Gs so that is my regular set-up, haven't tweaked around with these in their current state yet apart from intonation on the Jag.

I used to go by the rule of 27 Rizla papers under the bridge. Just enough elevation for movement using the trem.

That's one of the things that makes it hard to quit smoking, all your trems won't work anymore.

13 used Nicorette patches work just as well

i reckon this:

taylornutt wrote:Both Mustangs intonate properly, don't have neck shims and the actions are ok.

answers this:

taylornutt wrote:I was wondering if there is an ideal or minimum height that should be used when setting up a Mustang bridge.

surely if it works, it works?

Works does necessarily mean optimal.

I wanted to be sure that if it was not too flat,and if that would affect using the tremolo.

It helps to compare notes with others and see how others deal with it.

well, if you have neck shims the bridges will be higher to compensate.

I've wondered about this too. Seems mine is resting on the thimbles rather than free standing.

I almost always shim my necks because I like the action low with the bridge high. I think it stays the most stable that way.

honeyiscool wrote:I almost always shim my necks because I like the action low with the bridge high. I think it stays the most stable that way.

do you just shim under the closest screws to the body? or a shim large enough for 4 holes?

I just stick a .5mm or a .6mm pick against the heel to produce just enough tilt to get the action a bit lower, and then I raise the bridge to compensate. I think business cards work just as well, but I just have more picks than business cards.

honeyiscool wrote:I just stick a .5mm or a .6mm pick against the heel to produce just enough tilt to get the action a bit lower, and then I raise the bridge to compensate. I think business cards work just as well, but I just have more picks than business cards.

Gotcha, I'll do that now

taylornutt wrote:Works does necessarily mean optimal.

I award this statement the Dave & AVJ Award For Anal Truth. Welcome to the fold, brother!

honeyiscool wrote:I almost always shim my necks because I like the action low with the bridge high. I think it stays the most stable that way.

True, same with the old Jag bridge, increasing the break angle increases the tension on the bridge. Much more stable.

The Jag/Mustang bridges should be dead centre in the thimbles. This is easy to do - just string up the beast with the bridge roughly in the middle, and mash your trem arm up and down with some abandon. The bridge will naturally return to the centre when rested. Tune up, possibly repeating again.

You shouldn't and shouldn't need to move the bridge into position with your hands to get it right.

Woah woah woah, my bridge is way higher than that. . If all of your bridges are that low.. that must mean that Im doing something wrong.

Not necessarily. It depends on neck angle and personal preference. If it plays ok, it's ok.