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I've decided that it's time to save a shit ton of money by learning to do my own setups (I'm also hoping it will give me the courage I need to quit stalling, unpackage the soldering iron I bought a month ago, and wire up that bass). I'm starting with the Mockingbird because it's cheapest and easiest to replace if I screw something up irreparably. On that note, it occurs to me that "Hey, what does this screw do?" is the kind of question I probably ought to get answered before I start monkeying with anything.



So what does this screw do? It appears to control string length. When I strung up the guitar, the screw on the low E string side was so tight I could see space between the bridge and the bridge post, which seemed wrong, so I tightened it. Are they supposed to be the same on both sides? Is the idea to have the bridge flush with the bridge posts? At what point in the process do I adjust these screws (if at all), and how? My hypothesis is that they have something to do with setting the intonation. Let me know if I'm right.

It's another way of, like you said, controlling string length. Since yours already has saddles, it may be a bit redundant. Look at the bridge on this LP:


Here's what to do: measure from nut to bridge and make sure that the total length is the prescribed scale length (I'm assuming 24.75, since it's a Mockingbird), and that there's enough travel each way with your saddles for finer intonation adjustments.

That's not a Tune-o-matic, it's a Badass. Those screws are there because those bridges are designed for guitars that didn't originally have them. Look at the extreme angle of the bridge studs on the guitar Mo posted... the Badass came out as an aftermarket part in the '70s as a "fix it" bridge for vintage Gibsons that were like that, the screws allow you to set the bridge straighter by screwing the treble-side screw in almost all the way and having the bass-side one further out, then setting individual intonation with the saddles.

You don't need to do any of that. If you can't intonate the guitar you can move the bridge back/forward to get more room, but I wouldn't angle it, you have individual saddles.

Here's a '50s LP junior with a Badass, look at how offset the studs are and how much those screws are needed to compensate



Nowadays Gibson use a "lightning bar" bridge at a straight angle with a saddle ridge that is ballpark-correct for all the strings, so those stud screws are the only way to tweak intonation (good when going up/down in string gauge). The lightning bar was devised for the SG Junior in the early '60s, but those were made for wound Gs/offset studs so the new one is more universal.

This all makes much more sense now. Thanks, guys.

You could get away with removing the screws completely to be honest as they are redundant on your guitars setup.

I feel like I learned a lot from this thread already. THANKS TEAM

I think that screw was like that to get this guitar to intonate properly, and I never should have touched it. I can't tell whether this guitar is poorly made or I'm just incompetent or both. A lot of stuff just won't budge. Gonna call it a night and try again on Thursday. At least I don't feel bad about having paid someone else to do this all these years.

It can be difficult to tighten those screws with the guitar tuned to full tension, so try slackening the strings before trying to reverse what you've done. It's easy to screw them out tuned up, but not in.

This is a really good book to get you started on setting up and messing around with guitars. And it is cheep and pretty much available at most big box music stores.

Oscilloscopes and open tube amp chassis. It's how we all started.

George wrote:Oscilloscopes and open tube amp chassis. It's how we all started.

Those were the days.

paul_ wrote:It can be difficult to tighten those screws with the guitar tuned to full tension, so try slackening the strings before trying to reverse what you've done. It's easy to screw them out tuned up, but not in.

I did figure that out eventually, but thanks. The things that genuinely wouldn't budge were the bridge post on the high E side (puzzling) and the truss rod (worrisome). I'll give them another try tonight or tomorrow once I've moved the bridge back again, but otherwise I'm leaving them alone. And thanks for the tip on the book, cur. I'll check that out.

a drop of penetrating oil might help on that screw

cur wrote:penetrating oil

That's hot.

cur wrote:a drop of penetrating oil might help on that screw

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oh, just grow up........ all of you.

Mixtape, please forgive my fellow shortscalers, they are all filthy pig animals. Animals animals animals!