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Yesterday I turned on my dual terror and it doesn't seam to be working, sounds like it doesn't get of standby. Any ideas? the valves have less then one year, and they all seam to lit up like they normally do. I opened the amp to check for any loss wires (most of the connections on the DT are made with sockets) but found nothing. Will try to use some other valve I have, but doubt it's that. Any suggestions?

I would advise making sure that all electrical components and connections (possibly fascia and case too, for belts and bracers) are adequately coated in a layer of malt-based alcohol. To perform this procedure correctly I would advise holding the receptacle directly above the amplifier, tipping it from a vertical to a progressively more horizontal angle to ensure that the downward gravitational force on the liquid provides adequate saturation and an even spread. You will probably need to rebias afterwards.

So pour a beer on it?

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sp3k wrote:Yesterday I turned on my dual terror and it doesn't seam to be working, sounds like it doesn't get of standby. Any ideas? the valves have less then one year, and they all seam to lit up like they normally do. I opened the amp to check for any loss wires (most of the connections on the DT are made with sockets) but found nothing. Will try to use some other valve I have, but doubt it's that. Any suggestions?

Sounds like a high voltage (HT) problem. Are there any fuses? Do you have a multi-meter?

NickS wrote:

sp3k wrote:Yesterday I turned on my dual terror and it doesn't seam to be working, sounds like it doesn't get of standby. Any ideas? the valves have less then one year, and they all seam to lit up like they normally do. I opened the amp to check for any loss wires (most of the connections on the DT are made with sockets) but found nothing. Will try to use some other valve I have, but doubt it's that. Any suggestions?

Sounds like a high voltage (HT) problem. Are there any fuses? Do you have a multi-meter?

Yes and yes. I took it to an old guy that repairs electronic stuff, he said he'll take a look, but probably can't do anything because he can't get the parts for that kind of stuff. I'll report back on wednesday!

BEER TONE IS THE BEST TONE!

sp3k wrote:

NickS wrote:

sp3k wrote:Yesterday I turned on my dual terror and it doesn't seam to be working, sounds like it doesn't get of standby. Any ideas? the valves have less then one year, and they all seam to lit up like they normally do. I opened the amp to check for any loss wires (most of the connections on the DT are made with sockets) but found nothing. Will try to use some other valve I have, but doubt it's that. Any suggestions?

Sounds like a high voltage (HT) problem. Are there any fuses? Do you have a multi-meter?

Yes and yes. I took it to an old guy that repairs electronic stuff, he said he'll take a look, but probably can't do anything because he can't get the parts for that kind of stuff. I'll report back on wednesday!

BEER TONE IS THE BEST TONE!

dude, you can totally get fucking parts for all modern amps and shit. hell first place to check is goddamn orange. some places actually sell parts to customers, like peavey and crown - two of my favorites when it comes to service.

http://www.orangeamps.com/contact/

1. Check fuses' continuity with multimeter (diode test)
2. Jiggle tubes/pots to see if you get any sound/crackle (keep master vol low)
3. Dick around with FX Loop and see if you get anything to isolate problem. Is it preamp or power amp?

Poast more

Sloan wrote:1. Check fuses' continuity with multimeter (diode test)
2. Jiggle tubes/pots to see if you get any sound/crackle (keep master vol low)
3. Dick around with FX Loop and see if you get anything to isolate problem. Is it preamp or power amp?

Poast more

It doesn't have an FX Loop. Jiggling the tubes and pots didn't made a sound. It seams like the amp just stays in standby, I get that "on" sound from a the speakers when an amp is on standby. I'll check the fuses when I get the amp back from the old man, if he doesn't found what's wrong with it.

Btw, how long should I wait after unplugging an amp to touch the inside? I shocked myself (does this expression exists in english?), and would like to avoid that, don't want to end up fried for trying to repair an amp!

sp3k wrote:

Sloan wrote:1. Check fuses' continuity with multimeter (diode test)
2. Jiggle tubes/pots to see if you get any sound/crackle (keep master vol low)
3. Dick around with FX Loop and see if you get anything to isolate problem. Is it preamp or power amp?

Poast more

It doesn't have an FX Loop. Jiggling the tubes and pots didn't made a sound. It seams like the amp just stays in standby, I get that "on" sound from a the speakers when an amp is on standby. I'll check the fuses when I get the amp back from the old man, if he doesn't found what's wrong with it.

Btw, how long should I wait after unplugging an amp to touch the inside? I shocked myself (does this expression exists in english?), and would like to avoid that, don't want to end up fried for trying to repair an amp!

As I understand it, it is not a case of waiting a few hours or a day or two. Capacitors need discharging to be safe, which doesn't looks like a hard procedure but personally I wouldn't mess with my amps. I'll do valves, check switches, jacks, fuses and such but anything more complicated than that I'd need to feel more like I knew what I was doing.

If you are going to work on your amp, be careful, think about what you are doing before you do it, don't poke around with a screwdriver, don't put two hands inside the amp.

It's best not to mess with if your not comfortable with it.

What Sloan said.
My 2p:
Any sensibly designed modern amp should have bleed resistors* across the EHT that make the amp safe within a few minutes of turning off; a multimeter is useful to check the remaining volts on the high voltage electrolytics. That won't stop you getting a shock from the mains input, fuseholder or switch if the mains lead is still plugged in. If your (non-surgical) appliance has a mains input filter you can even get a shock off that if you touch it within a short time of unplugging the lead. Unplugging and leaving overnight ought to be sufficient.

Working on CRTs is another matter, no bleed resistors on the EHT there. Discharging 30kV through a screwdriver to chassis is quite exciting.


*Safety isn't necessarily the designer's first aim; the bleed resistors are sometimes a pair in series/parallel with series electrolytic caps to equalise the EHT voltage split across cheaper, lower working voltage electrolytics.

I've read before that the best way to drain the stored charge is to turn the socket off at the wall, and then turn the amp on while its plugged in. I'm not sure if US sockets have a switch like ours do though...

That's fine for solid-state; for a valve amp turning it on won't help a lot unless the heaters are hot, standby is off and, depending where your EHT fuse is, your EHT fuse is intact.

i had a few issues with my dual terror a while back. all i would get was loud hum and hiss through the amp when it came off standby, then nothing.
sent back to orange for repair, they replaced my output transformer. touch wood it's been fine ever since.