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Dicking With Lube
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 4:48 pm
by Cymbaline
Allright I need some more guru advice please. I am tired of dicking with lube and graphite and want a permanent, non sloppy, non dirty solution for TEH KURDTZ Mustang.
1) I propose putting a black Tusq XL nut on it.. still trying to find the right sized one, can't seem to find it
2) Can I simply replace the saddles with this Tusq material -
http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=34
AND - does anyone have a clue which ones of these would fit TEH KURDTZ??? Might it be the GOTOH one?
http://www.graphtech.com/products.html? ... rrencyID=2
Thanks to all.
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 5:23 pm
by laterallateral
too easy
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 6:04 pm
by honeyiscool
I made a guide for using rollers with Kurdtz but yeah, I highly recommend TUSQ. I have no idea if those saddles would fit, though. Any reason you don't want to just get a Resomax bridge? In theory, a 4mm one should work.
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 6:10 pm
by Cymbaline
honeyiscool wrote:I made a guide for using rollers with Kurdtz but yeah, I highly recommend TUSQ. I have no idea if those saddles would fit, though. Any reason you don't want to just get a Resomax bridge? In theory, a 4mm one should work.
THANK YOU, I was going to ask about if I can just replace the whole damned thing with a resomax bridge but I was worried about the radius - I thought it says 12"??? -
http://www.graphtech.com/product-607-2/
I was hoping to buy just the saddles and pay ~$35 rather than $115 for the whole bridge if possible
Yeah check it out in the specs - 12" radius
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessor ... -4mm-posts (this one seems to be the slipperiest)
EDIT #3
Say I bought the resomax bridge, I suppose then I can just take the saddles out and put them in the stock bridge to retain the same radius, no?
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 7:10 pm
by honeyiscool
You can just grind it down. TUSQ saddles are lubricated throughout, won't be a problem in that sense. The stock bridge is a Japanese ABR-1 type bridge that just has had the saddles notched extra deep.
I think the roller bridge is still the best idea.
I made a thread about it a while back:
http://shortscale.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=45554
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:19 pm
by Cymbaline
Ok the product I need then is graphtech PS-8400-00
Youre telling me the stock bridge on the Cobain mustang is a standard ABR-1 12" radius with the saddles altered ie each saddle is a different thickness top to bottom? or they have different slot depths to match the radius even though theyre built upon a 12" radius and the 7.25" radius is faked through slot depth?
(if this is the case I need to alter the saddles)
OR
The radius is altered to 7.25" and the saddles are all the same?
(if this is the case I DO NOT need to alter the saddles)
Sorry I'm not at home to look at this myself
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 9:37 pm
by honeyiscool
The saddles are notched to be 7.25". Otherwise, it's a normal Japanese ABR-1 type bridge.
Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 9:48 pm
by robert(original)
i must be one of the select few in the world that has never had a problem with the mustang trem, not on my j.s. nor either mustang ive had. i know ends now has one of my old mustangs(p-90stang) and the trem was a beast on that.
Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 4:00 pm
by Cymbaline
Well I've got the trem locked, the cigar lowered as low as it will go to still let the strings under - flipping the cigar is the wrong thing do do since you get a way better break angle by having the strings wound under the cigar. And I've got fat strings on it. But I am a tuning Nazi and my Jag HH Special stays in tune better than Teh Kurdtz Mustang, so I am trying to make every possible mod to have it rock solid, and the next step is a Black Tusq XL nut and saddles.
It doesnt look to me like the grooves in the saddles are deep at all. If the amount of depth theyre slotted to is to negate the difference between the heights of a 7.25" vs 12" radiused bridge, then we are talking fractions of a millimeter.
Thus, I could probably get away with a Resomax bridge with a 12" radius and Tusq saddles without any noticeable string height discrepancy.
OR, am I talking nonsense? Because if the stock bridge on Kurdtz stang is truly a 12" radius with the grooves slotted to fake a 7.25" radius then we are talking fractions of a millimeter.
OR. Prove me wrong. I suppose I could just buy the resomax bridge and compare them side by side and then see how much difference we're talking.
Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 7:52 pm
by honeyiscool
I don't know how I can prove you wrong. On my bridge, it was clearly a stock Tune-O-Matic bridge where the sides had deeper notches.
Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:08 pm
by Cymbaline
Thanks man I emailed graph-tech and ask them to develop 1.625" x 1/8" and 1.650" x 1/8" electric guitar tusq nuts for all the lesser known fender models.
Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:10 pm
by robert(original)
i honestly don't know who or why you are havin tunings problems. the graph tech stuff seems extreme to me.
Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:17 pm
by Cymbaline
Well I wouldnt say I'm having "problems", its just that I am a tuning nazi and I tend to re-tune after about 10-15 minutes of playing. My Jaguar HH special stays in tune lots longer, without fat strings or putting graphite on the nut slots and saddles.
I fucking love the way the guitar sounds but it seems to be difficult to keep it in perfect tune for very long.
I have friends that wouldn't re-tune like I do all the time, but I can hear when one of the strings is out of tune and I just can't deal with it. I'm OCD about being in tune.
Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:25 pm
by robert(original)
i am right there with ya bud. i can't stand not being in tune. it annoys the piss out of me, i can't even begin to tell you how many guitars i ended up setting up (of other peoples) just becuz the intonation was out and it was driving me fucking mad.
my j.s. and my teleguar sat in a basement for almost a full year before i sold them off and both were apparently still in tune. that actually suprises me. but, then again. my guitars were awesome.