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hmmm whats the difference between a classic 60s strat and a classic player 60s strat?

is it different names for the same thing or what?

The cp has a flatter fingerboard radius and 2 point trem. Probably different pickups too

I liked the 60s cp I tried

Ah ok the trem is a significant difference

George wrote:Probably different pickups too

Yep, CS69s - they're posh pickups. Loved the one I had (but also loved the pink CS one I played a few years back too).

So the cp is a lot better probably

I'd say yes. I think ultimately it'd depend if you like the fingerboard radius flatter or not

The classic series don't have the best pickups but they certainly aren't bad pickups, and if you want the vintage vibe that'd be the one to go for. The CPs are just like modern Standard Strats with a slim C profile and glossy neck.
The CP is good for high bends and finger vibrato with a touch less effort, not that you can't do either of those things on the old-school necks.

Modern Fender necks put me off guitars really, I've never hung with one for long anytime I've had one. This is probably because my first two Fenders were a Jag-Stang and CIJ '62 Jag, and my fave Strat ever is a '57 AV. Loves me some vintage radius/fretsize on any/all Fenders.

Biggest difference is the neck radius, and the trem system.

Classic Series sticks to vintage specs.

Classic Series uses a 7.25'' radius neck.

Classic Players uses some modern features.

Classic Players uses a 12'' radius neck.

(most modern fenders use a 9.5'' radius neck)

I actually just bought a classic Series neck for my strat because I prefer the 7.25'' radius.

paul_ wrote:The CPs are just like modern Standard Strats with a slim C profile and glossy neck.

Not that slim, slim. They're fairly meaty.

I find the Classic 60s to be much better but that's because I actually like the vintage radius necks and prefer the 6-point trem as well. Yeah, I get it, stock Fender 2-point trems are better than stock Fender 6-point trems. But upgrading a 2-point trem is hard and finding a nice aftermarket 6-point trem can have your whammy performing well beyond what a Fender stock unit can do and for not even that much money.

honeyiscool wrote:I find the Classic 60s to be much better but that's because I actually like the vintage radius necks and prefer the 6-point trem as well. Yeah, I get it, stock Fender 2-point trems are better than stock Fender 6-point trems. But upgrading a 2-point trem is hard and finding a nice aftermarket 6-point trem can have your whammy performing well beyond what a Fender stock unit can do and for not even that much money.

well that's an interesting point-- what would you recommend as far as a 6 point trem upgrade?

honeyiscool wrote:I find the Classic 60s to be much better but that's because I actually like the vintage radius necks and prefer the 6-point trem as well.

absolutely this. Classic 60s are what's up.

id be interested to see what aftermarket units (that don't look like total arse) vastly outperform standard ones.

they all perform much of a likeness to me. it's dependent on other issues mostly.

if you've never played a vintage radius you should go track down a classic series. The necks are as comfortable and easy to play as the mustang, jagstang and jaguar necks.

brainfur wrote:well that's an interesting point-- what would you recommend as far as a 6 point trem upgrade?

Wilkinson has a lot of nice options for not too much money, and a Callaham if you can afford it. Both have pop-in arms, hardened knife edges, big blocks, etc., i.e. way better than stock Fender 2-post trems.

George wrote:id be interested to see what aftermarket units (that don't look like total arse) vastly outperform standard ones.

they all perform much of a likeness to me. it's dependent on other issues mostly.

If you don't mind the slightly more modern look, this is probably my favorite of all vibrato bridges, I installed one in my Jagmaster (WVP6SB):



I love it for many reasons. First of all, the saddles have zero movement side to side. They are very solid. Also, the saddles are wonderfully made with no sharp edges, the contact area between the strings and saddles is very smooth. The height adjustment screws are contained within the block saddles, do not rough up your hands. Also, the block is very well thought out. Pop-in arm as well.

Most importantly, the blade edge is very hard and very sharp, these things return to the same spot every time. This is absolutely crucial. This is a design element borrowed from Floyd Rose, that dude knew what he was doing. The edges on most Fender fulcrum bridges are dull. That's why they don't always return to the same spot, and why diving and pull-ups often end up with your guitar in different places. When set up properly, these Wilkinson bridges actually establish a single axis of movement.

Here's a more vintage-looking one (WV6SB).



Never tried them, but they offer the Fender style saddles while still offering all the other advantages of the Wilkinson design (improved knife edges, pop-in arm, hefty sustain block, shallow string feeding mechanism, etc.

The Callaham is nice as well, but the Wilkinson gets you a lot of those similar improvements at a lesser price.