Yamaha SG-7 Renovation
Posted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 10:13 am
Looks like my Yamaha SG 7 has turned into a slight project. As it is it plays fine HOWEVER there are some issues that over time I’d prefer to fix up and one issue that that is rather concerning. I’ll add photos later but for the moment here is a list of repairs and upgrades that will take place over time.
1.Refret and binding fix.
The frets are very very low (and apparently low out of the factory) but add to this with some fret wear something tells me the leveling isn’t it’s best and there really isn’t any more height to risk a full scale fret level. The other issue is that my fingers do fight against the wood when bending, especially as there is some deep grain on the go. Therefore it’s time to refret with higher frets and get the binding sorted at the same time. I’m not currently brave enough to tackle a refret and binding replacement so have solicited the expert skills of Ben ‘Theworkoffire’, essentially because he is simply one of the best builders out there, shares my love for these early yamahas. He even owns one of these himself to use as reference!
2. I’ll call this next issue EATING BENECOL’S HUMBLE PIE.
I am 99% sure that a crack through the wood at the heel has formed. Putting pressure on the crack widens it so am pretty sure it’s not limited to the thick rattle can finish. Benecol, in one of his regular saucy PMs to me, did say “I’d chuck a proper neck plate on that first thing if I were you� and I duly ignored him. Ignoring ones elder and betters is about as punk rock as any 36 year old can be so I stand by that decision. I will be visiting his house and knocking his bins over later tonight.
Anyway.
So in order to truly check this issue imma gonna have to strip the body, pump that crack with glue, and refinish. PAIN. IN. THE. ARSE.
That being said, I know I can do a better finish that the rattle can job on there.
It’ll give me the opportunity to get some shielding in the cavities too and replace the ground wire to the jack, which is hanging on by a single thread.
3.New Nut.
Someone bodged a pre cut nut on there at somepoint and put the high E too near the edge. I’ll cut a new one PROPERLY. Undecided whether to cut a metal nut (as original) or go the TusqXL route as I am a heavy trem user at times.
4.Get a Stay Trem trem arm.
Didn’t get an arm with the guitar but have bodges a Jag trem arm in there for the moment. It’s not a straight fit and had to wrap it in copper tape. I’m going to get Alan from StayTrem to confirm if the StayTrem Collet will replace the collet on the Yamaha and if so will order one of his gold Jag arms. I’m a fan of his trem action, and think a one-off payment of 40 quid is worth it.
5. Trem plate is bent.
Oddly where the collet is attached to the trem plate, the plate is bent up as though the force of the trem use has bent it. It’s really odd because that plate is THICK and tough. I’ll probably get it flattened back and then sandwich the plate with some thin sheet metal which is held in place by the collet.
6. Possibly replace roller saddles.
The actual rollers appear to be plastic which is an odd choice, they work okay except for one which seems to be a bit sticky (despite some copious lubing etc). Ideally I’d like to see metal rollers in there like the earlier versions of this guitar. The current options are: a) figure out how to remove the existing rollers, source metal rollers of same dimensions and replace. B) Get a set of the old style Kahler roller saddles which were the same as the original Yamaha rollers and drop them straight in (in theory).
1.Refret and binding fix.
The frets are very very low (and apparently low out of the factory) but add to this with some fret wear something tells me the leveling isn’t it’s best and there really isn’t any more height to risk a full scale fret level. The other issue is that my fingers do fight against the wood when bending, especially as there is some deep grain on the go. Therefore it’s time to refret with higher frets and get the binding sorted at the same time. I’m not currently brave enough to tackle a refret and binding replacement so have solicited the expert skills of Ben ‘Theworkoffire’, essentially because he is simply one of the best builders out there, shares my love for these early yamahas. He even owns one of these himself to use as reference!
2. I’ll call this next issue EATING BENECOL’S HUMBLE PIE.
I am 99% sure that a crack through the wood at the heel has formed. Putting pressure on the crack widens it so am pretty sure it’s not limited to the thick rattle can finish. Benecol, in one of his regular saucy PMs to me, did say “I’d chuck a proper neck plate on that first thing if I were you� and I duly ignored him. Ignoring ones elder and betters is about as punk rock as any 36 year old can be so I stand by that decision. I will be visiting his house and knocking his bins over later tonight.
Anyway.
So in order to truly check this issue imma gonna have to strip the body, pump that crack with glue, and refinish. PAIN. IN. THE. ARSE.
That being said, I know I can do a better finish that the rattle can job on there.
It’ll give me the opportunity to get some shielding in the cavities too and replace the ground wire to the jack, which is hanging on by a single thread.
3.New Nut.
Someone bodged a pre cut nut on there at somepoint and put the high E too near the edge. I’ll cut a new one PROPERLY. Undecided whether to cut a metal nut (as original) or go the TusqXL route as I am a heavy trem user at times.
4.Get a Stay Trem trem arm.
Didn’t get an arm with the guitar but have bodges a Jag trem arm in there for the moment. It’s not a straight fit and had to wrap it in copper tape. I’m going to get Alan from StayTrem to confirm if the StayTrem Collet will replace the collet on the Yamaha and if so will order one of his gold Jag arms. I’m a fan of his trem action, and think a one-off payment of 40 quid is worth it.
5. Trem plate is bent.
Oddly where the collet is attached to the trem plate, the plate is bent up as though the force of the trem use has bent it. It’s really odd because that plate is THICK and tough. I’ll probably get it flattened back and then sandwich the plate with some thin sheet metal which is held in place by the collet.
6. Possibly replace roller saddles.
The actual rollers appear to be plastic which is an odd choice, they work okay except for one which seems to be a bit sticky (despite some copious lubing etc). Ideally I’d like to see metal rollers in there like the earlier versions of this guitar. The current options are: a) figure out how to remove the existing rollers, source metal rollers of same dimensions and replace. B) Get a set of the old style Kahler roller saddles which were the same as the original Yamaha rollers and drop them straight in (in theory).
