Working on plans
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- Chris Fleming
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- Location: Glasgow
Working on plans
Hi all. Been working on these plans for a bit. I've got an electric in the process of getting built but I never really planned it out properly. Thought I should think it through a bit more this time and stick with a relatively simple build using some borrowed measurements and stuff.
Anyhoo... It's loosely based on a Jaguar (same basic neck, scale length, body size and such) but there's some of the Italian surf guitars in there somewhere. Some of the sizes are probably a bit off but the shape, neck pocket and saddle position are ok. I've not really decided on what hardware to use (and am open to suggestion) just always liked the look of filtertron pickups... never played anything with them on though.
I've got a lump of ash lying about that I might use, although might be a touch heavy, and some maple for the neck. Going to try and make up proper templates so I can rattle of a couple maybes?
Here's what I've got so far
And a rough colour one... Doubt I'll use these colours, it's more because I'm tired and can't be bothered doing a more rendered version
Anyhoo... It's loosely based on a Jaguar (same basic neck, scale length, body size and such) but there's some of the Italian surf guitars in there somewhere. Some of the sizes are probably a bit off but the shape, neck pocket and saddle position are ok. I've not really decided on what hardware to use (and am open to suggestion) just always liked the look of filtertron pickups... never played anything with them on though.
I've got a lump of ash lying about that I might use, although might be a touch heavy, and some maple for the neck. Going to try and make up proper templates so I can rattle of a couple maybes?
Here's what I've got so far
And a rough colour one... Doubt I'll use these colours, it's more because I'm tired and can't be bothered doing a more rendered version
- SKC Willie
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I like almost everything about that, save for the switch placement. I'd be worried about smacking it too hard and bending/breaking it. IMO, it would be better as a 3 way right where it would go on a Jazzmaster. Other than that, I love it
Doog wrote:Tone is stored in the balls
(she/they)theshadowofseattle wrote:That's why there's two: one for pee, one for tone.
- Chris Fleming
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Glad folks like it. Never sure if I'm going to end with something ugly when I design stuff. Don't seem to have great judgement until I finish and realize it's way off. Have the same problem when painting and drawing... gave up comic art for that reason.
I used Illustrator to draw it. The base is a pdf of a Jaguar, think it's the same one in the template thread, then I used or deleted bits I did or didn't need.
I think it's the denser heavy northern ash I've got. Was thinking I might build one with a hollowed out body, top plate, cats eye hole and binding? Need to do that with the one I'm working on now as I used Mahogany without thinking of the weight, and need to now lighten the thing up. I'll probably start with something lighter for just now to see how this works out.
Was thinking about a 3-way switch, might be a better option yes.
I used Illustrator to draw it. The base is a pdf of a Jaguar, think it's the same one in the template thread, then I used or deleted bits I did or didn't need.
I think it's the denser heavy northern ash I've got. Was thinking I might build one with a hollowed out body, top plate, cats eye hole and binding? Need to do that with the one I'm working on now as I used Mahogany without thinking of the weight, and need to now lighten the thing up. I'll probably start with something lighter for just now to see how this works out.
Was thinking about a 3-way switch, might be a better option yes.
- robert(original)
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The two changes I'd want to make would be putting the jack socket on the side of the guitar, like on a Tele or Les Paul, as it's a bit cluttered with it on the guard and a Jazzmaster style 3-way switch rather than the blade type. If you moved the jack socket it would fit quite neatly with the two controls a little lower on the guard, too.
Shabba.
Poplar is a great beginner wood to work with. It's cheap, light weight and easy to machine. I recall cutting out a couple northern ash bodies on a scroll saw, I was averaging 2-4 blades to cut out a body...... yeh, it was that bad. I'd use it for a top/rear but would substitute the core of the body for a hollowed out piece of poplar. Northern Ash grains are amazing and it defeats the whole purpose of using it, if you don't plan on staining it.
- Chris Fleming
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robert(original) - Cheers... "First act" don't know what that means?
James - Was also thinking that, always had it on top so that's what came to mind, but I'm up for putting on the side. Good idea for freeing up space for the switch. ta
Joey - Might be an idea. Not that used to power tools and such. I've made a couple of acoustics from scratch, but that's all hand tools mostly. I'm going to be painting the first one so doesn't have to be the prettiest of woods... I'll look into it. Could maybe see about getting the ash sliced up for top plates.
Ok.... off to change a few things
James - Was also thinking that, always had it on top so that's what came to mind, but I'm up for putting on the side. Good idea for freeing up space for the switch. ta
Joey - Might be an idea. Not that used to power tools and such. I've made a couple of acoustics from scratch, but that's all hand tools mostly. I'm going to be painting the first one so doesn't have to be the prettiest of woods... I'll look into it. Could maybe see about getting the ash sliced up for top plates.
Ok.... off to change a few things
http://www.firstact.com/Chris Fleming wrote:robert(original) - Cheers... "First act" don't know what that means?
- robert(original)
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first act is a budget line of guitars, but they also make really high end stuff... its weird, there stuff is either crap, or great, no in between line of models.
anywho.
you were using a scroll saw to cut out a body?!?!?!?!?!? thats craziness!
an actual band saw blade would last me about a month or two, and i was cutting everything from mahog, to northern ash, poplar, to basswood, even some exotics like bubinga, zebra wood, and zircotti. and that stuff is DENSE AS FUCK!
and of course i was also cutting alot of maple, both figured, and plain rock maple, the figured stuff is alot softer and porous than your average rock maple, or european maple.
anywho.
you were using a scroll saw to cut out a body?!?!?!?!?!? thats craziness!
an actual band saw blade would last me about a month or two, and i was cutting everything from mahog, to northern ash, poplar, to basswood, even some exotics like bubinga, zebra wood, and zircotti. and that stuff is DENSE AS FUCK!
and of course i was also cutting alot of maple, both figured, and plain rock maple, the figured stuff is alot softer and porous than your average rock maple, or european maple.
WHAT! The scroll saw was the heart and soul of wood shop in middle school I used what I had at the time. I picked up a Recond Ridgid Bandsaw at Home Depot for $200 a few years ago. Hadn't mod it yet, it needs new tires and cool blocks. I don't do resaw so I haven't bother to change out the riser block yet.
I did pick up a Performax 16/32 Drum Sander off of Craigslist for $400. I use the shit outta this machine.... love it to death. I been holding out for a 15" Planer... but hadn't come across one yet (lack of cash). Besides I use my Shop Fox Pin Router to cut boards to the desired height and clean it up in the Drum Sander.
I did pick up a Performax 16/32 Drum Sander off of Craigslist for $400. I use the shit outta this machine.... love it to death. I been holding out for a 15" Planer... but hadn't come across one yet (lack of cash). Besides I use my Shop Fox Pin Router to cut boards to the desired height and clean it up in the Drum Sander.
- Chris Fleming
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Oh yeah.... it is a bit similar. Not to worry.
Here's what I've got now.
I've repositioned and changed the switch. I also thinned it down a touch in the lower end.
Also drew up a preliminary routing diagram.
Don't have exact sizes for some of the parts so will most likely have to change it a bit, but does it make sense? For the jack I figured I'd drill a 10mm hole to connect to the main cavity then dowel it back up and re-drill with a larger hole to accommodate the jack.
Here's what I've got now.
I've repositioned and changed the switch. I also thinned it down a touch in the lower end.
Also drew up a preliminary routing diagram.
Don't have exact sizes for some of the parts so will most likely have to change it a bit, but does it make sense? For the jack I figured I'd drill a 10mm hole to connect to the main cavity then dowel it back up and re-drill with a larger hole to accommodate the jack.
- Chris Fleming
- .
- Posts: 507
- Joined: Wed May 08, 2013 8:14 am
- Location: Glasgow
- Chris Fleming
- .
- Posts: 507
- Joined: Wed May 08, 2013 8:14 am
- Location: Glasgow
- Chris Fleming
- .
- Posts: 507
- Joined: Wed May 08, 2013 8:14 am
- Location: Glasgow