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Making knobs with casting resin progress...
Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 2:24 pm
by h8mtv
So a few of you have been tuned into the search for Bronco knobs. I had been trying to make a few clones for myself as well as clone some old radio and other knobs for projects. Here are a few of what I made earlier this week. I am pretty pleased. These are drilled, tapped, ready to rock. The one I soaked in a jar of coffee for a few days to see how it would do.
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Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 2:29 pm
by cur
Cool stuff! Not long ago I was interested in figuring out how to cast stuff and spent a bit of time looking into it, but never pursued it. description or pics of the process would be fun to see.
Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 2:52 pm
by finboy
Excellent progress!
Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 3:57 pm
by Narco Martenot
Awesome! Nice work!
Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 4:11 pm
by taylornutt
Are those knobs on the right from the old Sovtek Big Muffs?
Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 5:29 pm
by HNB
Awesome work man! Great job.
Solid metal castings would be pretty rad with those templates.
Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 9:30 pm
by h8mtv
taylornutt wrote:Are those knobs on the right from the old Sovtek Big Muffs?
Ding ding ding
Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 9:54 pm
by taylornutt
Have you put these knobs on anything yet? Does the resin only come in white?
Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 10:05 pm
by h8mtv
I actually just started a black one.
Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 11:17 pm
by h8mtv
The white is least expensive. The other options are clear and then you tint them with transparent or opaque dyes. I am mostly sticking with Smooth-On stuff. It is known to be best. I built a pressure tank with a 2.5 gal paint pressure tank. I bought a set of canisters for my food saver vacuum sealer. I mix the rubber in solo cups, vacuum out the bubbles in the silicone then pour the mold. Once I have the mold made I cast it under about 50 psi . I also have had much clearer results with the transparent stuff when I warm the molds on a coffee cup warmer.
Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 11:22 pm
by h8mtv
Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 11:36 pm
by ekwatts
I thought you only really needed the whole vacuum process when the piece has all sorts of undercuts and fine details. Even then I've only ever used a vibrating table for really complex pieces and they've come out fine.
Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 11:48 pm
by h8mtv
I had problems with bubbles in molds and casting. The vacuuming the silicone before pouring it helps a lot and pressure in casting is pretty much essential with this resin. It is solid and fine to handle in 30 minutes.
Posted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:02 am
by DGNR8
They look great. Hope you perfect colors.
Posted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:10 am
by h8mtv
Black looks good so far. I did a transparent red one and a clear with a seed as a marker for a buddy. I'd like to get into polishing the clear stuff. Can't be hard.
Posted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:58 am
by ekwatts
If the clear stuff has casting blemishes try painting over the area with gloss acrylic varnish, or even modelmakers water effects (it's basically a pre-mixed transparent resin).
Posted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 1:54 am
by h8mtv
Sweet, I'll try that. Thank you.
Posted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 3:03 am
by h8mtv
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Enclosure lid.
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And a Sovtek knob.
Posted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 1:36 am
by h8mtv
Posted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 4:41 am
by finboy
Got any more aged white sovtek knobs?
