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I have a Turbo Rat and a You Dirty Rat and both are on my board at the moment. I've noticed that when my Turbo Rat is off the led is still dimly lit, is this normal?

Also, I was moving pedals around on my board the other day and I think I knocked one of the live 9v jacks against a pedal and ever since my You Dirty Rat has been emitting a high pitched ringing noise (a bit like tinnitus). This ringing noise changes in pitch when I turn the Turbo Rat's distortion knob, leading me to think that the dimly lit led means the pedal isn't totally off when the switch is disengaged.

Can anyone advise what the issues might be a help with solutions?

johnnyseven wrote:I have a Turbo Rat and a You Dirty Rat and both are on my board at the moment. I've noticed that when my Turbo Rat is off the led is still dimly lit, is this normal?

Also, I was moving pedals around on my board the other day and I think I knocked one of the live 9v jacks against a pedal and ever since my You Dirty Rat has been emitting a high pitched ringing noise (a bit like tinnitus). This ringing noise changes in pitch when I turn the Turbo Rat's distortion knob, leading me to think that the dimly lit led means the pedal isn't totally off when the switch is disengaged.

Can anyone advise what the issues might be a help with solutions?

Older Turbo Rats aren't true bypass, I had a RatII do this exact same thing. The way to find out for sure take the battery cover off of the back and look at the switch, if it has 9 connection points, its true bypass, if only 6, it's not true bypass.

I think you might be right on that one, i'll check tonight but i'm pretty sure it doesn't have 9 connection points. Thanks.

Anyone have any suggestions re the YDR noise issue, have I fried one of the components?

johnnyseven wrote:I think you might be right on that one, i'll check tonight but i'm pretty sure it doesn't have 9 connection points. Thanks.

Anyone have any suggestions re the YDR noise issue, have I fried one of the components?

You may have a ground wire loose in that one, open it up and look for a loose wire or a shoddy(cold) solder joint.

Just for the record:
Not sure which ones but some Rats used a DPDT (6 lugs) and what we call Millenium bypass now which is also true bypass. I would guess most of the Rats with an LED and DPDT would have this as you can do true bypass without an LED with a DPDT. Point being it doesn't necessarily have to have a 3pdt (9 lug) switch to be true bypass with an LED.

Discussion of Rat true bypass and Millenium (sic) true bypass:
http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/m ... millen.htm

This approach also cured forever the tendency of the early models to latch up or oscillate.

Bill Oakley wrote:Just for the record:
Not sure which ones but some Rats used a DPDT (6 lugs) and what we call Millenium bypass now which is also true bypass. I would guess most of the Rats with an LED and DPDT would have this as you can do true bypass without an LED with a DPDT. Point being it doesn't necessarily have to have a 3pdt (9 lug) switch to be true bypass with an LED.

I never knew this.

Dimly lit LED might indicate oscillation.

What do you mean by oscillation?

Oscillation, in this case, = high pitched ringing noise.