ShortScale.org

I expected HOLY HELL THEY FEEL LIKE BRIDGE CABLES but I'm experimenting with C and C# detuning so they actually feel about right. Having a wound third string might take some getting used to though - I'm a tad worried about breaking it when I get over-zealous with bends, because the tension is sort of similar to the D string when tuned normally. Not that I've broken a string in years, but still.

Now I'm dealing with more bottom end I'm finding the G12H in my 2x12 to be a bit nasal so I'll swap it out for a creamback as soon as my finances are more secure. I'm not using my DRRI much either these days, so I think I'll be putting some big stuff on the classifieds in a few weeks or so.

So yeah. Heavy gauge for the win and all that.

I've got flatwound 13s on my Epiphone Dot atm. A not very successful attempt at a B-B or C-C baritone. Found the strings a bit floppy but had nut issues that, I think, were the cause of some tuning problems around the lower frets (intonation was fine around the 12th fret).

When I get the guitar back out of storage I think I'll put some more "sensible" strings back on it and tune it back to E-E.

Cue Rob....

Be sure to carefully adjust the truss rod with heavy strings like that on that Epi.

I'm not too worried about the truss rod and tension tbh - the tension feels about the same because they're tuned so low. I'll definitely double-check the action and intonation at the bridge in the next day or two though.

Are there tables or other sorts of calculators out there for this sort of stuff btw? I'm finding it to be a bit of a trial-and-error thing - the choice of 12s was a bit of an educated guess that just happened to work out okay. The general rule of thumb is to go up a gauge from standard 25.5" to 24" short scale iirc, but I'm kinda surprised that string gauge-to-tuning converters aren't more widespread.