Dod 250 bypass issue

Johno · Post by **Johno** » Sat Jul 25, 2020 4:08 pm

I love the Dod 250/ Mxr Dist + circuit(s)..... but my Dod does not pass signal when switched off, it's one of the old 3 lug switches, anyone know how to wire it so it passes signal when off?
I have 2 MXR's and one of them also has the 3 lug but passes signal fine.

NickS · Post by **NickS** » Sat Jul 25, 2020 7:13 pm

I see the bottom left MXR has been made true bypass.. I wonder whether the DoD was converted and converted back wrong. I can't see enough of the wiring to tell you what's wrong though.

Johno · Post by **Johno** » Mon Jul 27, 2020 4:20 pm

Cheers Nick, I took some close ups if that helps.

sunshiner · Post by **sunshiner** » Mon Jul 27, 2020 5:37 pm

Unrelated to the questions, but I'm curious how do the germanium diods behave in hot environment? Do they go meh the way germanium transistors tend to go?

George · Post by **George** » Mon Jul 27, 2020 5:59 pm

I thought only the newer 250 reissues were true bypass. Could be wrong though.

holyCATS1415 · Post by **holyCATS1415** » Tue Jul 28, 2020 5:01 am

The footswitch is probably faulty. If you have a multimeter you could check if itÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s good or not.

NickS · Post by **NickS** » Wed Jul 29, 2020 10:03 pm

holyCATS1415 wrote:The footswitch is probably faulty. If you have a multimeter you could check if itÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s good or not.

This looks like the answer. The wiring looks correct for the Carling 112-P footswitch, the output jack is connected to the common tag by a purple wire and the A and B are the purple wire from the input jack and the blue wire to the effect PCB that isn't connected to the input jack. Replace the 112-P.

Johno · Post by **Johno** » Fri Jul 31, 2020 2:11 pm

NickS wrote:
holyCATS1415 wrote:The footswitch is probably faulty. If you have a multimeter you could check if itÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s good or not.
This looks like the answer. The wiring looks correct for the Carling 112-P footswitch, the output jack is connected to the common tag by a purple wire and the A and B are the purple wire from the input jack and the blue wire to the effect PCB that isn't connected to the input jack. Replace the 112-P.

Thanks guys, off on my hols (lockdown willing) but will order a switch upon my return and report back....

Post by **Mike** » Sat Aug 01, 2020 11:44 am

If you're replacing the switch anyway, I would plump for a DPDT latching footswitch and just make it true bypass so it doesn't roll off your top end when off.
But maybe that's already part of your TONE so you might not wanna screw with that