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Posted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 4:15 pm
by theshadowofseattle
I will take gut shots when it comes in. Ideally I should only have to replace the switch for the behringer and the one input jack, I think. If you guys can convince me that a complete noob can do it, I'll try.

Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 3:32 pm
by Fakir Mustache
It's probably possible to get rid of the PC board with the jacks and wire them directly, and it's simpler to wire if you get rid of the switch on the jacks, but in any case a complete noob will not be able to do this.

Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:34 pm
by theshadowofseattle
Okay, so I have the VD-1 in hand now, and there's no way I'm bold enough to fuck with the jacks. Would it be possible to connect them at the footswitch (which needs to be replaced for true bypass anyway)?

Could I wire the muffy circuit to a footswitch, then put that through the Fuzz Face before sending to the output? If so, would this allow me to share power between the circuits or would I still need two power sources?

Gut shots coming tonight.

Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:48 pm
by theshadowofseattle
Image

Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 11:31 am
by Mike
theshadowofseattle wrote:Okay, so I have the VD-1 in hand now, and there's no way I'm bold enough to fuck with the jacks. Would it be possible to connect them at the footswitch (which needs to be replaced for true bypass anyway)?

Could I wire the muffy circuit to a footswitch, then put that through the Fuzz Face before sending to the output? If so, would this allow me to share power between the circuits or would I still need two power sources?

Gut shots coming tonight.
yup and you can share power as long as both are negative ground

Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 7:08 pm
by theshadowofseattle
Image[/img]

Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 10:51 pm
by theshadowofseattle
Image

I CAN'T TELL WHERE THE FUCKING BLACK WIRES IN THE BACKGROUND GO

Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 10:52 pm
by theshadowofseattle
Also, I have no clue how the power will go over now, or will it go through the signal to the FF?

Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 11:31 pm
by theshadowofseattle
Image

This is all I got

Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 1:44 am
by h8mtv
*Most* pedals like behringers, danos, etc are on and active when they power up. When doing a rehouse I pull the pcb mount jacks and wire direct to the power pads and in/out jack pads.

Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 2:02 am
by theshadowofseattle
Yeah I don't know what any of that means.

Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 2:11 am
by theshadowofseattle
I bypassed my main power base but I think my signal is grounding to my input barricade. Should I rewire the transcapacitor to my asshole?

Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 3:50 am
by aen
theshadowofseattle wrote:Should I rewire the transcapacitor to my asshole?
NOT a transcapacitor. You need a Thermoptic film diode ring.

Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 4:00 am
by theshadowofseattle
Does anyone who has mod'd one of these still post here?

Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 2:05 pm
by Mike
Confused?

Are you trying to follow this initially to just TB the VD muff or are you trying to go dual drive immediately?

Image

let mek now what you're trying to do and I'll help.

Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 2:15 pm
by Dave
Mike wrote:let mek now what you're trying to do and I'll help.
For a moment I read that as referring to yourself with a cute pet-name and in the third person.

Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 2:18 pm
by Mike
miek

Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 2:31 pm
by Dave
:lol:

Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 3:19 pm
by h8mtv
Perhaps stick with Play Doh?

Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 5:49 pm
by theshadowofseattle
h8mtv wrote:Perhaps stick with Play Doh?
stick to deez nuts
Mike wrote:Confused?

Are you trying to follow this initially to just TB the VD muff or are you trying to go dual drive immediately?

Image

let mek now what you're trying to do and I'll help.

Yeah, I wanna TB it first, and then once that is confirmed, it would take like 10 minutes to dual drive it based on what you've told me (thx u miek <3). Problem is, I have found 3 different threads about these being mod'd for TB, and NONE OF THEM use the same wires! I trust the Bill Oakley dude's work, but he never does an post anymore for me to axe him how its done. Also, he charge 40 bucks to do the mod and idk if he'd give me a schematic for free.