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Hey guys, I'm getting ready to change the strings on my new Fender Classic Player Jaguar Special HH, but this is my first guitar with "Vintage Style" tuning machines that mount from the top of the post (as opposed to a side-mounted post).

What are some tips & tricks for doing this? I did a YouTube search, but all the videos I found were for Gibson or Stat-style tuners with side mounting holes (parallel to the headstock) that require bending the string back on itself.

It looks like top mounted strings go straight in and wind from the top down. How much slack sould I leave to get 3 or 3.5 good winds?

There's a good picture for this, but I can't find it. I think basically you should put the string through the bridge as normal, pull it tight over the bridge and nut and cut it to about an inch longer than the post, then put the end into the middle of the tuner, bend it over one side and start winding.

There are flat cut-outs on the top of the posts. Should I line 'em up parallel to the nut or perpendicular to the nut?

Also, depending on how I line up the nut, should I bend to the left or the right?

jesus fucking christ kurdt.


you fucking stick the end of the fucking string in the fucking hole and wind that shit up

why doesnt' your jagmaster have slot heads on it already?

Then once you've cut them, stick the end in and as soon as it's gone as far as it'll go, bend it to 90 degrees and start winding, keeping youe finger over the top so it doesn't fly out.

Well, I've got my first Jaguar string change under my belt. What a freakin' pain!

First of all, to get 3 good winds around the post, I'll need to double the suggested slack next time around (at least for the wound strings). On the low E, I didn't even get 2 winds on the post -- which will suck for Drop D tunings.

However, other than not leaving enough slack, everything went fine until I hit the high E. The damn string kept slipping out of the post. I finally got my 9-year-old son to loan me both of his thumbs, and between the two of us, we managed to tighten things up...after about 15 minutes of patient work!

I'm not ready to throw in the towel yet and am hoping that the next time I change strings, it'll only take 8 minutes for the high E...

I love it when its time to change strings, its kinda like giving a hot rod a tune up.

More Cowbell wrote:I love it when its time to change strings, its kinda like giving a hot rod a tune up.

+1

Plus Klusons are incredibly easy to string, they're the best tuning machines by a long shot. I just allow 4-6 inches excess past the post. Never had a problem.

Sounds like you're using 9s if your high E is that springy, just use some needle nosed pliers to bend your right angle if you need to. I can restring a Kluson guitar in 3 minutes.

i played my new willshire plugged in like all day yesterday non stop (it was the first time i plugged it in since i bought it)....i know thats sad.


anywhoo...im pretty sure they loaded it up with 10's but to me they feel like 8's. like i fucking bend the note just pressing my finger down on the fucking string holding it still. its fucked up. all my chords sound like shit. like all dissonent and stuff. just from playing normally.


those packs of 13's cant get here soon enough.

I can't fret properly on anything less than 11s due to my sloppy heavy handed playing.

However sloppy heavy handed playing brings the noise, so whatareyagonnado?

First of all, thanks for all the feedback and "tips & tricks".

As with any new process, I figured things wouldn't go totally smoothly out the block -- and they didn't. The trouble with the high E is that one of the initial windings crossed over the top of a previous wind, so I had to loosen up the string to fix it. When I pushed up on the bottom of the string, it accidentally popped off the post. By then, it was already tightly wound in a coil making it REALLY hard to re-start the process.

I do have a string winder, but I didn't use it. Next time around, I'll dust it off.

The factory strings all had a minimum of 3 winds, so I figured I ought to use that as a benchmark, but so far even the low E with 1.5-2.0 winds seems to be staying in tune just fine. Bottom line: the Gibson Brite Wire #11's that I put on my Jag sound great.

Do they have a wound G?

MatthewK wrote:Do they have a wound G?

Gibson Brite Wires don't have a set with a wound G string, but there are two other Gibson electric string lines that do:

Gibson L-5 Jazz Strings

http://www.gibson.com/en-us/Divisions/G ... eries/L-5/

Gibson Powerlines

http://www.gibson.com/en-us/Divisions/G ... owerlines/

The Powerlines look very interesting as they're made specifically for dropped tunings: D, C, and "Standard Low Tuning". Never tried 'em, but now I'm curious. The smallest gauge is 12-52.

"Slow wound, nickel plated steel outer wire with Swedish hex steel core wire, chromed ball ends and gauges specifically designed to accommodate lowered tunings without adverse affects on the guitar's set up. Each gauge is balanced to provide great feel while producing thunderous low end. "

Thanks - they do look good. I can't get a plain G to intonate right and they feel weird, I must have played too much acoustic.

Armchair Bronco wrote:First of all, to get 3 good winds around the post, I'll need to double the suggested slack next time around (at least for the wound strings). On the low E, I didn't even get 2 winds on the post -- which will suck for Drop D tunings.

You'll probably get another turn around the post once you properly stretch the new strings in, if you haven't already.

this is from the fender website, i've always used it as a guide and never had any problems-

Vintage keys. For these, you'll want to pre-cut the strings to achieve the proper length and desired amount of winds. Pull the sixth string (tautly, remember) to the fourth key and cut it. Pull the fifth string to the third key and cut it. Pull the fourth string between the second and first keys and cut it. Pull the third string nearly to the top of the headcap and cut it. Pull the second string about a 1/2" (13 mm) past the headcap and cut it. Finally, pull the first string 1 1/2" (38 mm) past the top of the headcap and cut it. Insert into the center hole in the tuning key, bend and crimp to a 90-degree angle, and wind neatly in a downward pattern, being carefull to prevent overlapping of the strings.

It's possible to string up on slotted pegs without pre-cutting the string or feeding it through the center hole, as you would a modern 'keyhole' style peg.

Once you've threaded the string onto the guitar, kink it as shown in diagram, pull it taught and then wind on as normal. The first wind should go over the top as a 'safety wind' to stop it from popping out.



I find this method to be reliable and had no tuning problems or slippage. Great if you get caught short at a rehearsal or gig without any wire cutters handy.

I learnt it from this book, which suggests about a million other ways too. I was suprised at how many methods there are. Well worth a read.