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Buffing for n00bs
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 4:08 pm
by Fran
Wondered if anyone can rcommend a compound (that is available in the UK) for getting that final shine on a geetar body?
Also, any tips on buffing and attachments to use with an standard drill. I've got a bit of an 'orange peel' thang going on with this JS body but i reckon i'll get it out with some 1200 grit but its obviously gonna need buffing up after.
Thanks.
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 6:29 pm
by stewart
try that T-cut stuff. it's for cars but i think hurb has used it with success. halfords'll stock it.
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 6:57 pm
by Thom
stewart wrote:try that T-cut stuff. it's for cars but i think hurb has used it with success. halfords'll stock it.
+1 Hurb used it on his faux XII with great success, looked really nice after some elbow grease!
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 8:28 pm
by Hurb
this is the stuff I use
you get it in the colour the guitar is painted in. wet your cloth and rub like fuck till it shines up...takes a lot of work mind. get the finest wet and dry paper you can get from halfords to smooth the finish before hand(with water also).
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:18 pm
by astro
I don't know if this is available in the UK, but I use 3M Finesse-It II. It's very effective and requires minimal effort.
It doesn't even need a drill or buffing machine (but you can use them if you want, I just do it by hand). After wet sanding up to 2000 grit, I just squeeze some Finesse-It II onto the guitar's body, rub it around with an old clean cloth, and wipe it off. It takes literally no more than 2 or 3 minutes at most to get a mirror-like shine. I bought a 1L bottle a few years ago, and I've done about 4 bodies with it and only used about 10% of the bottle.
![Image](http://www.detailing.com/store/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/m/m/mmm05928-1.jpg)
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:09 pm
by Fran
Hurb wrote:wet your cloth and rub like fuck till it shines up...takes a lot of work mind. get the finest wet and dry paper you can get from halfords to smooth the finish before hand(with water also).
Cheers dude. Cant i use a buffer attachment on the drill? This is gonna take some serious rubbing otherwise
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:14 pm
by Gavin
A drill rubs off all the mojo, it needs to be done by hand or the mojo arrows will be pointing all different directions at once.
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:20 pm
by Hurb
Fran wrote:Hurb wrote:wet your cloth and rub like fuck till it shines up...takes a lot of work mind. get the finest wet and dry paper you can get from halfords to smooth the finish before hand(with water also).
Cheers dude. Cant i use a buffer attachment on the drill? This is gonna take some serious rubbing otherwise
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
I have no idea, I cant see why not. There's only one way to find out
![Razz :P](./images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:39 pm
by Fran
I read somewhere you can get 'burn throughs' if your not careful but yeah... im on it
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:49 pm
by mezzio13
1200
then
1500
then
2000
with a sanding block.
then the stuff hurb mentioned.
Posted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 1:22 am
by DGNR8
I go 800, 1200, 1500, 2000.
Nuffing for boobs!
Posted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 3:25 pm
by Fran
Went to various places today and the finest wet and dry you can get round here is 1000. So it looks like perhaps 800>1000>T-Cut.
Buffing/Polishing accessories for a drill are ridiculously priced so im going HurBz route of rag & elbow grease.
No rush on this. When i have no work whatsoever (probably next week) the project will help me retain my sanity.
Posted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 4:22 pm
by Pens
Did you try an automotive supply store? I get my high grit sandpaper from auto supply stores.
Posted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 7:42 pm
by Fran
aye, and diy stores.
The Uk is shite for stuff like that, always has been since i strated messing around with guitars.
Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 4:35 am
by Phil O'Keefe
If you stop at 1000 grit, you're going to be in for a LOT of work with the T-Cut / Finesse It. I mean, a LOT of work; especially if you're going to be doing it by hand.
![Sad :(](./images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 10:27 am
by Fran
Well, i've got a lot of time on my hands phil
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 12:06 pm
by Bacchus
Try going to a garage where they do body work, and ask them where they get the finer grits. They may well sell you a handful if they're dead on.
Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 7:21 pm
by Fran
Got bored today, went 800>1000>T-Cut. It looks better than i thought it would, still has a relic'd look about it as i wanted (65 'Stang neck bitches) but its smart enough.
![Image](http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/franlubas/JS%20Project%202/IMG_1027.jpg)
Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 7:24 pm
by Bacchus
Looks really good.
Be sure to move that T-Cut before you sleepily put it into a morning brew, though.
Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 12:52 pm
by mezzio13
hahaha!
Seriously though, it looks real good.
DGNR8, I left it to assumption that the lower grits would be used.
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)